Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Butcher's Branch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All The Right Moves S 
Bag, The T 
Bicycle Club S 
Boing S 
Bourbon Sauce S 
Control S 
Flight of the Gumbie S 
Green Piece, The S 
Hardcore Female Thrash S 
Jumpin' Ring Snakes T 
Just Another Glitch T 
Kaos S 
Lost Souls S 
Low Voltage S 
Ministry S 
Mo' Betta' Holds S 
Play it by Ear S 
Sancho Belige S 
Springer S 
Stop Pulling My Ear (Arppeggio) S 

Mo' Betta' Holds 

YDS: 5.11c/d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Doug Reed (1991)
Page Views: 2,057
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Apr 26, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pulling the roof on Mo' Betta' Holds, NRG

Description 

This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical. All the holds after the 3rd bolt are jugs.

The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out." This part of the route is now on the ground.

Location 

This is the 4th bolted line to the right of Flight of the Gumbie. The route starts under the large roof. This is climb to the right of Kaos, 5.12c.

Protection 

6 bolts, shuts.


Photos of Mo' Betta' Holds Slideshow Add Photo
Trash can lid.  Photo credit: Samantha Larson
BETA PHOTO: Trash can lid. Photo credit: Samantha Larson

Comments on Mo' Betta' Holds Add Comment
Show which comments
By jsustrich
Aug 10, 2015

As noted, trash can lid is now on the ground. There's another big flake right next to where the old one used to be, pretty far out right but if you're tall it'll work. From what I understand, it seems like it doesn't seem much more stable than the last one. Be careful with this one, especially the belayer. Grade is definitely bumped up a bit, but I don't think there's a consensus. I'd assume 11d-12a maybe.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!