Mo' Betta' Holds  5.11c/d

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.11c [details] FA:  Doug Reed (1991) Submitted By:  Jeremy Steck on Apr 26, 2009 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Pulling the roof on Mo' Betta' Holds, NRG

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Description 

This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical. All the holds after the 3rd bolt are jugs.

Location 

This is the 4th bolted line to the right of Flight of the Gumbie. The route starts under the large roof. This is climb to the right of Kaos, 5.12c.

Protection 

6 bolts, shuts.