Mo' Betta' Holds
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Pulling the roof on Mo' Betta' Holds, NRG
This climb is so much fun! Start by climbing up the small right facing corner to gain a stance. Traverse right and up a few feet to clip the second bolt with a fixed chain draw. Climb straight over a very shallow left facing corner (technical crux) to gain a nice stance below the roof. From here, follow excellent jug holds into the roof and head right using the large flake in the roof to gain a stance. Continue straight up, eventually finishing on the arete to reach the anchors. This is more of an endurance climb than it is technical. All the holds after the 3rd bolt are jugs.
The description for this route in the Wolverine guidebook says "Dangle out to the 'trash can lid' then throw them jugs to the ground on your way to the slabby top out." This part of the route is now on the ground.
This is the 4th bolted line to the right of Flight of the Gumbie. The route starts under the large roof. This is climb to the right of Kaos, 5.12c.
6 bolts, shuts.
BETA PHOTO: Trash can lid. Photo credit: Samantha Larson
Aug 10, 2015
As noted, trash can lid is now on the ground. There's another big flake right next to where the old one used to be, pretty far out right but if you're tall it'll work. From what I understand, it seems like it doesn't seem much more stable than the last one. Be careful with this one, especially the belayer. Grade is definitely bumped up a bit, but I don't think there's a consensus. I'd assume 11d-12a maybe.