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Whiteface Mountain
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M.L.K. Jr. Memorial Route T 

M.L.K. Jr. Memorial Route 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b X [details]
FA: Bradley White, 1983
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 622
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 27, 2009

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The only dike on right side from the ground up or from a traverse half way up first pitch there is a ledge from the forest that almost reaches the dike. I climbed in this way avoiding the dike's lower section. It was almost to much friction to the dike (5-6). Follow dike up (5-4) until able to traverse left onto tree ledge. Above center of tree ledge climb excellent face move on bulges heading right to access hand crack (crux). Climb hand crack until it becomes a crack filled with brush hair organic matter, moss? Jams are still excellent regardless of the organic brush stuff adhered to the crack. Brush stuff made excellent foot holds very tough. Exit by holding onto pine boughs. Bushwhack very short distance to summit. Great climb and a great view but a lot of traffic by climbers would probably disturb this organic brush stuff ecology. I don't expect any traffic. Check on whether this is in the wilderness forest protection regulations or not before you do any nailing and power bolting.
There used to be on the summit of Mt. Whiteface a memorial plague to Martin Luther King mounted onto a boulder. Someone crowbarred the plague off of the boulder in 1982. I named the route to reenforce M.L.K. Jr.'s chosen right to be here.


Just below summit of Mt. Whiteface and reached by The Blue Berry Ridge trail after about 2.3 miles.


none, soloed it.

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