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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Petch Pietrolungo
Page Views: 1,010
Submitted By: snowhazed on Aug 9, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>


5.9 face with cracks for pro, or 10a face with a bolt gains fun wide hands with tons of features on the face for feet.


Two number 3 camalots if you want to sew it up.

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By powderfinger
From: san mateo
Oct 17, 2010

The 5.9 start is the variation and the 10a start is the start for the route. The 10a bit is a couple of fun moves over a small roof that is well protected by a bolt. The hand size crack with dikes intersecting it is great for folks who are new to crack climbing.
By Rude Boy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Do the direct 5.10a start. Undercling and smear to pull the roof. Fun lead and the bolt protects it very well. The crack starts out as a finger crack and widens to a perfect splitter hand crack. I put in #0.4 cam down low and then a #3 cam. Was able to back clean the #3 and just kept moving it up as I progressed to the top.

I think Supertopo only gives this route 2 stars but I give it 4. I really enjoyed it.
By Pavel Burov
Jun 29, 2015

Nice face climb with a solid trad gear protection. There are possibilities to place everything from small nuts to wide hands size cam. Also it is not that hard to setup a toprope after climbing Hogwild to the right. I would say this climb is a good "gym to trad" transition playground. Bring here pro of all kind and learn how to place it (note, if you do not fall on your gear you do not know how to place it, set up a TR backup).
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