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Mixologist 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Petch Pietrolungo
Page Views: 664
Submitted By: snowhazed on Aug 9, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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Description 

5.9 face with cracks for pro, or 10a face with a bolt gains fun wide hands with tons of features on the face for feet.


Protection 

Two number 3 camalots if you want to sew it up.



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By powderfinger
From: san mateo
Oct 17, 2010

The 5.9 start is the variation and the 10a start is the start for the route. The 10a bit is a couple of fun moves over a small roof that is well protected by a bolt. The hand size crack with dikes intersecting it is great for folks who are new to crack climbing.

By Some Random Guy
From: San Francisco, CA
Jun 11, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Do the direct 5.10a start. Undercling and smear to pull the roof. Fun lead and the bolt protects it very well. The crack starts out as a finger crack and widens to a perfect splitter hand crack. I put in #0.4 cam down low and then a #3 cam. Was able to back clean the #3 and just kept moving it up as I progressed to the top.

I think Supertopo only gives this route 2 stars but I give it 4. I really enjoyed it.