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This is an excellent route when it is in condition. Approach as for Loch Vale ice climbs and continue around to the east face of the Loch Vale ice climbing area. Hike up the snow to a point where the traverse crack is obvious. The route traverses out this crack to the right and then climbs up to the ice curtain on its left. You then move right, onto the ice, and go for the top.
Cams can be used to protect the traverse. There is a pin that can be clipped before committing to the ice. Ice screws protect the ice above.
This is not the best route to toprope because the ice curtain is usually less than 5 inches thick at the bottom and is easily trashed. If you do TR, there is a large tree at the top of the climb.
Dave traversing into the start.
Ben moving up to the rest at the wide crack. Phot...
Charlie moving past the crack into the harder part...
Ben higher, pulling on small holds, looking for bi...
Charlie about to the smear of ice.
Having fun with a little shower halfway through th...
Just passing the crux bit, thanks for the pin!
Jon Gustavson leading the horizontal bit
Stone, getting on the ice (Mixed Feelings 3/6/2005...
Conditions Loch Vale/Mixed Feelings (3/6/2005)
Doing laps on Direct Mixed Feelings to rebuild str...
Direct Mixed Feelings...indirectly?
BETA PHOTO: Matt Baughman leads as Kyle Kunhle belays on 'Mixe...
I've got mixed emotions...
Only one hand belaying me?
Cruising up the ice.
Climber (unknown to me) on lead on Mixed Emotions ...
|Comments on Mixed Feelings
Dec 10, 2001
Thin this year (12/8/01). The ice is a few moves above the fixed pin, and only 4 inches thick for 15'. It's doable, though.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 16, 2002
I don't get the comment about this route not being suitable for toproping -- is that just to keep the rifraff off?
|By Dan St. John|
From: Castle Rock
Mar 1, 2002
This route is easily toproped. In fact, I have only seen one lead in the 6-7 time I have been there.
|By Ben Mottinger|
Feb 17, 2003
I haven't done but a handful of mixed routes so don't take my word for it, but I think this is harder than M5 for the conditions when the ice doesn't start until after the angle decreases to less than vertical.
|By Alex Shainman|
From: the best place right now!
Dec 29, 2003
Just as a heads up...As of last month the second pin (# 1 blade) is no longer there! I blew out the placement when I tried to replace it with a # 3...Sorry, but considering that the pin shifted with a slight test tap I would not have wanted to hang on it!!! Definitely a false sense of security at best! Too bad the water isn't flowing like it used to (down to the angle).
|By Timmy! Tormey|
From: Fakeville, USA
Jan 19, 2005
In response to Ben's post: the climb that is described here and all the pictures are for "Mixed Emotions" which Gillett calls M6 WI4+. "Mixed Feelings" is actually right near the fork in the trail after you get into the gorge. So, yes, it is harder than M5... but it might also be considered accurate for the grade in other areas, being huge holds really close together.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 16, 2005
I want to know more about this new bolted route on Mixed Feelings. Who is Jack B.? I would like to hear from him about this. It sounds cool.
|By Scott Lehman|
Feb 17, 2005
Re. recently reported bolting of "direct start" to Mixed Emotions and question about FA- I have seen Ryan Vachon lead the route several times with no gear to the traverse ledge and very lean gear through the seem/crack left of the ice (or into the left side of the ice in fat years). This line has been scratched up for years, but would guess it is not often lead....
|By Anonymous Coward|
Feb 23, 2005
There is no question that this variation to Mixed Feelings should and will be chopped.
It has been led several times using natural pro (pins and nuts) and so therefore making the bolts unnecessary but by placing the bolts with a motorized drill it allows the park service the excuse to come and ban other routes in the area.
Oct 25, 2006
The 3 bolt start is actually pretty good, nice moves although #3 is in a whonky spot. Chopping these bolts is only going to mutilate the rock and frankly I don't see how, now that they are in, these bolts offer any more visual impact than those placed tediously by hand, they are actually rather hard to pick out. Mind you I am not encouraging power-drill use in the Park or other wild areas where they are prohibited, indeed I heard at the time that the blokes who Bosched this thing could nay do it.
This is a good little crag so leave it be, as is...
|By Alan Searcy|
From: Pine, Colorado
Jan 7, 2008
Spanking and Stellar! Anyone should go lead it and then try to say it's M3, with a straight face. There's a free stubby in the snow under the dick-sicle if you can find it. I could not.