I'm thinking about taking a class near Canmore in late November. I've been told it's mostly mixed climbing, which I've never done.
I want to improve my ice climbing skills but is learning mixed helpful for getting better at ice? If the mixed routes had a lot of ice I know it would, but what if it's mostly dry tooling?
My 2 cents: spending some time mixed climbing will make you more comfortable placing your frontpoints on little rock edges. That's something that can make a lot of ice climbs a bit easier/less stressful. Not so much if you only climb huge fat flows, of course, but when it's a thin runnel you're on, the ability to step out to the side on a rock edge can be significant.
Besides, all the cool kids are mixed climbing these days, right?
beccs
·
Jun 9, 2014
·
Ontario Canada
· Joined Mar 2012
· Points: 200
As you get on to harder ice routes you'll find more mixed terrain. This may be because you want to link sections of ice, or it could just be because that section of climb hadn't filled in.
Also, climbing thin ice is similar to the movement required with drytooling, where you must place your picks and front points rather than being able to kick and swing.
Plus, drytooling is crazy fun. Ice can only become so challenging before it starts to get really dangerous.
I've found that mixed climbing helps ice climbing as the former demands thinking about how to move in a three-dimensional space. It wasn't until I began drytooling that I stared to think about approaching pure ice "gymnastically", which meant seeing more/better placements and being more efficient (fewer placements, longer reach, etc.).
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