Mountain Project Logo

Mixed climbing skills good for ice?

Original Post
Steve-Cl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15

I'm thinking about taking a class near Canmore in late November. I've been told it's mostly mixed climbing, which I've never done.

I want to improve my ice climbing skills but is learning mixed helpful for getting better at ice? If the mixed routes had a lot of ice I know it would, but what if it's mostly dry tooling?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,492

My 2 cents: spending some time mixed climbing will make you more comfortable placing your frontpoints on little rock edges. That's something that can make a lot of ice climbs a bit easier/less stressful. Not so much if you only climb huge fat flows, of course, but when it's a thin runnel you're on, the ability to step out to the side on a rock edge can be significant.

Besides, all the cool kids are mixed climbing these days, right?

beccs · · Ontario Canada · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 200

As you get on to harder ice routes you'll find more mixed terrain. This may be because you want to link sections of ice, or it could just be because that section of climb hadn't filled in.

Also, climbing thin ice is similar to the movement required with drytooling, where you must place your picks and front points rather than being able to kick and swing.

Plus, drytooling is crazy fun. Ice can only become so challenging before it starts to get really dangerous.

Steve-Cl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15

Ok, I'm sold on mixed. As a bonus, an excuse to go out and buy more gear.

Thanks for the input guys.

SavageMarmot · · Nederland, CO · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 190

An excuse to go climb more with the gear you have!

mark55401 · · Minneapolis · Joined May 2011 · Points: 355

I've found that mixed climbing helps ice climbing as the former demands thinking about how to move in a three-dimensional space. It wasn't until I began drytooling that I stared to think about approaching pure ice "gymnastically", which meant seeing more/better placements and being more efficient (fewer placements, longer reach, etc.).

RafalA · · Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 20

Additionally, after climbing a bunch of mixed roofs, vertical ice will seem like the easiest thing ever!

Go for it, mixed/drytooling is ridiculously fun, and there are a lot of great areas around Canmore to explore.

Steve-Cl · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 15
SavageMarmot wrote:An excuse to go climb more with the gear you have!
Good point. I'm thinking my wife would say something like that if I told her I needed to buy some Nomics for learning mixed.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
Post a Reply to "Mixed climbing skills good for ice?"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started