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Eiger
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Mittellegi Ridge 5b 

Mittellegi Ridge 5b 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c A0

   
Type:  Aid, Alpine, 2000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b A0 [details]
FA: Yuko Maki, Fritz Amatter, Samuel Brawand, and Fritz Steuri, 10 Sept 1921.
Season: June - September
Page Views: 5,348
Submitted By: Brian on Sep 24, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The Mittellegi Ridge is the obvious ridge line.

Description 

Classic alpine route. Spectacular climb with thousands of feet of exposure down either side of the ridge. We attempted the North Pillar but had to retreat off that due to running waterfalls. The Mittellegi was a very worthy consolation prize. Highly recommended.

Location 

You have to traverse the mountain to get up and down it. The best strategy is to take the train up to the stop at the Eismeer glacier and go out the tunnel there and rap to the glacier. Traverse the glacier and climb to the Mittellegi hut. Spend the night there. Climb the route to the summit. Take the South Ridge Route down traverse around the Monch to the Monch hut and spend the night there. The next day take the train down from the Jungfraujoch or hike down.

Protection 

Light alpine rack. One 9mm rope. There are a lot of fixed ropes put there by the guides but not to be underestimated due to its length.


Photos of Mittellegi Ridge 5b Slideshow Add Photo
Rapping out of the Eismeer tunnel is the coolest approach to any climb.
Rapping out of the Eismeer tunnel is the coolest a...
Starting the down climb. Once down the south ridge of Eiger, the ridge up to the Monch is nice quality granite.
Starting the down climb. Once down the south ridge...
One of the scenic parts of the ridge.
One of the scenic parts of the ridge.
The approach to the Mittellegi hut is like climbing a slate roof with all loose tiles.
The approach to the Mittellegi hut is like climbin...
The Mittellegi hut is perched precariously on the ridge with an airy walkway.
The Mittellegi hut is perched precariously on the ...
From the hut
From the hut
Nice view from the top!
Nice view from the top!
The top
The top

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