|Coal Pit Buttress
Start:The right/west edge of a big wide slab.
Pitch 1: Climb up the weaknesses to the first bolt. Don't make it harder than 5.4. Clip bolt 1 and make a 5.7 friction move. Clip a long runner into the chains above and continue up to the roof. Move through the notch that takes a good cam. A large cam protects the precarious move up to a bolt. Diagonal left toward the crack in the dihedral and protect before pulling up over left and onto another slab. A few more friction moves. Belay at a 2-bolt/ring station.
Pitch 2: Diagonal left 30' over an easy bulge of rock to bolt 1. Climb straight up a slab with small intermittent cracks. Place cams when you can and look for bolts in a straight line to the ledge. Most folks will probably want to end here. There is a 2-bolt/ring station 20' back right or you can continue straight up to a natural belay at the base of the wall.
Pitch 3: Scramble 100' west along the ledge system. Belay at a 2-blade/chain station.
I recommend bringing 8 cams (0.9"-2"), 32 carabiners & 12 runners (24"). The route is a bit runout in sections, but the hardest sections have protection close by.
Bolted & cleaned June 2006-May 2007 with the help of Nathan Fisher, Dana Patterson (pitch 1) & Glen Kaplan (pitch 2).
Dec 26, 2007
The single bolt on the first pitch, seemed strangly placed.
Dec 27, 2007
Thanks Craig...I must have missed something then. I was racing the sunset...so probably I was rushing.
|By Ben Folsom|
Aug 11, 2008
I'll make sure to bring exactly 32 free carabiners for this route.