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Misty 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Penny Jordan, Darrell Jordan, Brett Blackwelder - 1991
Page Views: 5,180
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 6, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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I get MISTYYYY, thinking of you!

Description 

If Comfortably Numb is the must-do trad line, Misty is the sport route not to be missed at Sand Rock. From crimpers to thin moves on a bulge to positive holds on steep overhang, Misty has it all. An outstanding and memorable lead.


Location 

Starts near the right end of the Sun Wall buttress, about 20' right of First Black in Space.


Protection 

Seven bolts, bolted anchors.



Photos of Misty Slideshow Add Photo
Eric gets funky delicious in February
Eric gets funky delicious in February
Paul on misty good old sand rock
Paul on misty good old sand rock
The anchors at the top of Misty, Sandrock.  Photo by Mike.
The anchors at the top of Misty, Sandrock. Photo ...
The crux
The crux
Leading Misty.  Photo by Frank N.
Leading Misty. Photo by Frank N.
misty
misty
Working the crux on Misty.  Photo by Frank N.
Working the crux on Misty. Photo by Frank N.
The fun bit
The fun bit
Comments on Misty Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 29, 2013
By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Mar 29, 2007

Crux is down low...from between the second and third bolt, it's straight cruising from there, up. Power thorugh it.

No doubt, one of the best routes for the area.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jan 18, 2008

Great route. A must do.

By mike cork
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The scene of my first whipper! It's a reasonably safe route, but has good size fall potential if you get pumped and come off high on the route. I think I popped off trying to clip bolt 5 or 6, and took an exciting 25 footer. I also wouldn't want to fall getting to bolt #3 following the crux of the route.

The grade seems a little high (I'd suggest 10b), but then again I do this route every time I come to Sand Rock...classic.

By justaguy11
Jan 15, 2012

A bolt was added high on the route, below the chains, removing the pump crux and scary (but safe) longer fall potential. SO, given that all the risk, suspense, and challenge of the route has been removed, I recommend that the grade be lowered to 10a, or even 9+ unless the kiddie bolt is removed.

By Greg Berry
Mar 29, 2012
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

The biggest jugs you'll ever let go of! 10b. A must do route. Can get busy on the weekend. There are no kiddie bolts on this one. If 10b is your limit you will love them all. Starts from the ground not from the top of the big boulder.

By Michael Brannaka
Nov 15, 2012

I only did this climb once before I moved away from the area in 2009. I want to do it again so bad. I took a couple falls trying to work out the crux down low. It's so balancy and feels really sketch. The rest is just pure fun.

By Chris Ennis
May 12, 2013

My favorite lead in the East so far! Highly recommended to all!

By Jeremy Y
Jul 29, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Is it true someone died on this route in the last year by falling from around the second bolt and hitting the large boulder at the bottom of the route?