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 ADVANCED
Between Shark's Fin Wall & Bridge Wall North (Practice Rock)
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Mists of Mordor 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Timothy Meskel
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 909
Submitted By: Travis Thompson on Aug 12, 2005

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BETA PHOTO: Mists of Mordor.

Description 

Climb a slab past three bolts to a "loose" lip (just be a little careful and you'll be fine). Turn the lip, and go straight up the face past two more bolts.

Protection 

There are five bolts and a two-bolt anchor. Clipping the third bolt with a long draw or a runner will dramatically reduce rope drag.

Location 

Just past the valley going to the Shark's Fin Wall there are two new climbs. It is the second. (Towards Loveland from Friendship Seven).


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Mist of Mooodoor~!
Mist of Mooodoor~!

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By Travis
Nov 21, 2005

Sorry, forgot to tell you where it is. Just past the valley going to the Shark Fin Wall there are two new climbs it is the second. (Towards Loveland form Friendship Seven).
By allen simons
Nov 26, 2005

I found this to be a fun climb but I would say be a lot careful at the loose lip. If those falling rocks hit a moving car on the road the driver will end up in Mordor. And what is the name of the other climb you mention? I found the whole bottom of this climb to be verwee scarwee (aka-loose).
By Travis Thompson
Jan 1, 2006

Sorry that I used someones's wrong name when I listed Mists of Mordor. I thought that I had signed up on the "name list" before and that was my name. My friend Tim Meskel and I bolted it and he made the first ascent.

Allen is right you should pay attention going over the lip, however I weigh about 200 lbs and have never pulled anything loose when I didn't expect to, but Allen is right please do be careful.
By Chad Kline
Aug 24, 2006

This climb (and the one to the left) were my first two lead climbs (Nov '05). I climbed the one to the left, then I did this one. I fell just above the lip, sliced my finger on the sharp rock, and bled on the lower slab (sorry, Travis). But I got back on the route and finished it off, blood and all. I've been in love with lead climbing ever since. I've since been back to climb it again and still find it a lot of fun! Thanks Travis for putting it up.

Chad
By Tymothe
From: Fort Collins, Co
Sep 9, 2006

Travis-(a.k.a. buzz) and I are long time friends and climbing partners. We put this climb up in the pouring rain last year. I made the first ascent, because trav's a sissy (j/k trav). I love this route and think it is an excellent addition to the btc climbing area. Chad is right this rock has a cutting factor, so be careful. Props on the wounded finish though Chad. Also watch the rock. There is a lot of chossy rock about, but the route was meant to be climbed around to the left and pull directly over the roof to avoid the chossy areas. Cheers! Tymothe
By Chad Kline
Sep 14, 2006

I must give credit where credit is due. Thanks to you too, Tymothe, for an excellent route!

Both times I've climbed it I've stayed right above the lip, in the grassy, pathcy crack. Are you saying that I should go left once pulling over the lip?
By Tymothe
From: Fort Collins, Co
Sep 14, 2006

Totally. It makes the climb that much more gratifying. If you pull over the lip, I would venture to say the climb becomes a grade higher then Trav and I originally graded it (5.10a, but I think that's open to debate:). There are a few tricks to the lip, but if you look around you will find the necessary moves, plus it minimizes the rock fall to the passing motorist that can come out of that chossy, grassy crack. Cheers! Tymothe
By Caelan
From: Dysfunctional, CO
Mar 27, 2007

This route should be avoided due to the *very* loose block on the route. Things like this should not be climbed so close to the road. If that block pulls loose, someone (climber, belayer or traffic) is likely to get hurt.