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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Anchovy Caper, The 
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication 
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Fish Corner  
Flying Squirrel 
Green Mile 
Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b 
Juicy Fingers 
Maltese Falcon, The 
Maria's Variation 
Men In White Suits 
Metamorphosis 
Mister Meaner 
open project 
Rainbow 
Scene of the Crime 
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Slack 
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White Buttress, The 

Mister Meaner 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Sprague
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: Jake D. on Apr 26, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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BETA PHOTO: getting into the crux moves

Description 

Climb Anchovy Caper and continue up to 2 bolt anchor on the grassy belay ledge above. Bring up your 2nd and belay from here. Start just right of the belay anchors up to a right facing corner. Traverse left under the roof and over. finish up the slab to the anchors.


Mark Sprague wrote: "Yes, Panama Hat* goes at around 5.9 and is the left climb off the ledge. Beta: once you reach the roof traverse pretty far left before going up then angling back right and up to the anchors. The best approach to PH is up The Anchovy Caper and on to the ledge where you will find a 2 bolt anchor. With a 70 m rope and good use of slings you can do this and lower as 1 long pitch."

  • Panama Hat renamed Mister Meaner


Location 

Left most route on ledge above Anchovy caper.


Protection 

7 bolts to bolted anchor.



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By jcullem
May 29, 2010

Did this route for the first time recently. A really nice moderate addition to the collection of moderate routes at this crag. It makes a nice 2-pitch route (via one of the lower pitch options) and deserves to see more traffic. Rock quality is good, but watch for some loose stuff here and there. Exposed bulgy crux half-way up, then a more exposed traverse left under the roof. Have fun!

By S. Neoh
May 29, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Agreed. Nice moves gets one to high up on the cliff.
More or less straight over the roof makes a 5.10/10+ variation; happened upon it by accident before we figured out the path of least resistance is to traverse left under the roof. :)

-SNeoh

By CLamb
Jul 4, 2010

A really nice route, but pretty clearly in the 10a range not 5.9.

-cwl

By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 30, 2012

I agree Sneoh, I was just thinking about this route for some reason and I also powered out the right side/center of the roof and clipped after (no long sling) and thought it a little tough and heady.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 15, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

This climb made me wish for smaller fingers around the crux.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Mar 14, 2013

This is one of my favorites in the area and definitely worth the trip up to the ledge. Green Mile, Anchovy Caper, Fish Corner, and Bonnie and Clyde (this one I am not certain about..) will all get you up there so take your pick.

By Harrison Harb
From: Portland, Or
Nov 22, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

^don't think B&C goes quite that far up