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Sunnyside Crags
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Bad Day at Black Rocks 
Cold September Corner 
Gotham City 
Hot August Night 
Magellanic Cloud 
Mercedes 
Meteor 
Mister Freeze's Face 
Mister Masters 
Pit Bull 
Shady Ladies 
Spring Break 
Tarantula 
Tie me Tightly 
Van Allen Belt 
Water Dog 
Whiplash 
Whipper 

Mister Masters 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Paul Van Betten, Danny Meyers; 1987
Page Views: 2,385
Submitted By: chad umbel on Jan 21, 2005
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Andy Hansen on Mister Masters. Jan 2012

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Description 

Start just left of the obvious dihedral to the left of Mercedes and climb the steep crack with jugs till it slabs out. The anchors aren't visible from the ground nor the end of the steep climbing. You then break left on the very dark, polished face. You can toprope three other routes once you hit the anchors, which are Gothom City, Spring Break, and Tarantula. All of which are hard trad lines.


Protection 

Standard rack of cams, HB offsets are nice.



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By Darshan Ahluwalia
From: Petaluma, CA
Feb 12, 2007

This is the steepest trad 5.9 I've been on. Its overhanging, yet tons of huge holds make it 5.9. Take some small gear (black alien) for the top slabby traverse.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

a second #2 camalot (or equivalent) will protect the traverse nicely...no need for micro gear.

really amazing climb, though- steep, fun, surprisingly well protected, and a thoughtful finish! full value for sure!

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Oct 4, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Excellent climb! Juggy thuggery on the bottom.... delicate and thoughtful up top. Plenty of protection up top that appears right when you need it (HB offsets went in perfectly). No move is very hard, but hanging out the place gear guarantees a 10- pump.

Be sure to find the best protection possible before starting the traverse to protect your second below.

By SexPanther aka Kiedis
Nov 3, 2011

Red River Gorge stylie! No crux on this but a pump crux. The traverse up top takes a good #3 camalot, I'd suggest SR-3" with doubles from .75"-3". With that rack you can place only cams, you can go with a single set of cams if you want to place some wires, which are fine, they'll just pump you out more.

The anchor on this has been replaced as off 11/11. You should be good to belay your second up and be able to lower or rap down from the 3-bolt station regardless of whether there's anyone TRing Spring Break.