The crux is about 1/3 of the way up the 1st pitch It is well protected and the fall (if you take one) is a relatively gentle pendulum. The climbing is steep and sporting! The moves are elegant with no giveaway sections. There is steep slab climbing to a mantle before each bolt. There is no way to dog any part of this pitch. You have to climb it! There is a large ledge to belay from. Pitch two is a hand/fist crack.
MM is on the left side of Block Tower. Ascend an easy chimney up to a large ledge with comfortable boulders. If you only do the 1st pitch bring some gear to rap although there is probably fixed stuff? If you do the whole climb, we walked off the back and down climbed the gully between Block and Poe.
Pitch #1 is all bolts drilled on lead from natural stances. Pitch #2 is regular Platte rack (cams and nuts).
|By Kevin Stricker|
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 2, 2007
For full value start this climb with Wrist Never Sleeps, then walk across a ledge to the start of the first pitch. I replaced most of the bolts on this route with bomber ASCA SS bolts. There were several 3/8" Rawl split-shaft bolts with Leeper hangers. These I only replaced the hangers.
|By Allen Hill|
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 6, 2007
One of the best ones up there for sure.
|By Olaf Mitchell|
From: Paia, Maui, Hi,
Oct 2, 2008
Kevin, Thanks for your re-bolt efforts in the Spires. I am sure that this route will get more of the traffic that it deserves with bomber clips.