Mister Freeze's Face
|635 page views|
A friend of mine leading Mr Freeze
The face just to the right of Shady Ladies sports a single bolt. The climb starts off heady and gets headier as you go, with some marginal and difficult to place protection guarding 5.10 moves in various places, including up top, where you have already suffered most of the route and may be 'done.' No less, it is a good route and is worth climbing. The Swain guide rated this "5.10?" I thought it would be about 5.11c going belly to the bolts, but we found a sequence going right after the bolt that was 5.10+.
Just to the right of the corner that is Shady Ladies, there is a dark face with a single bolt perhaps 15 meters up. The climb is up on intermittent cracks, flakes and horizontals to this bolt, up and slightly right past it, then up the face on some left-leaning and left-facing features. It tops out on a slabby ledge where .75-1.5" nuts and cams are used for a final belay.
To retreat, climb down and over left to a station as for Shady Ladies
Rack: A trad rack from brass to 3" + a QD for a single bolt. Longer slings recommended.
While the lone bolt is at the crux of the route, it does not mean that the rest of the route is either easy or well protected. Getting to the bolt requires 5.10 climbing on cams in horizontals and small nuts behind small flakes. This is a serious route.