Warsaw

Looking at the bridge from the crags at Warsaw.

Description 

South-facing, decent quality limestone, lakeside bluffs. Sun all day, but usually windy. On good weekends, you may see 2 or 3 other parties.

Mostly vertical to slightly overhanging sport routes, though there are a few exceptions (trad, steep). Most require a 50 meter rope, but a 60 is necessary for the super sweet Tigerbill. Since access is from the top, toproping is also an option on most climbs.

Check out Missouri Limestone Select, by Sean Burns.

These are the areas, from west to east, or left to right as seen from the water:

The Far Side
The Washboard Area
Funhouse Gully
Black Snake Area
Walrus Ledge
Weenie Buttress

Getting There 

From Kansas City, take 71 south to South 7, going left at the top of the ramp. In Clinton, take a left near the Wal-Mart, to stay on 7. After going over a long bridge over the Lake Truman, take a left on SW 621. Take a left a the stop sign by the dam. Then take the first left and park off the road near the gate. Remember not to block the gate or your car will be towed.

From the gate, follow the gravel road going left on the trail on the left side just over the hill. Take the next trail on the right, usually marked by a cairn. Once on this trail, just follow it to the top of the cliffs. Once at the cliffs, you can rappel to the bottom or there are two gullies, one to the left/east and one farther down to the right/west, that you can descend.

The Classics

Featured Route For Warsaw

Phantom Fugitives 5.11b  MO : Warsaw : The Far Side

After clipping the first bolt, climb the mini roof dihedral up and left to a ledge. Then head up and a little right on face climbing. Some of this section is not very good quality rock, but it's ok. Aim for the base of the clean dihedral/roof about 50 feet up. There, pull left into the dihedral/roof. After getting up a little, head back right and up to the anchors on a ledge. See note in pro section about descent and cleaning. Most of the ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MO