Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!
Location
Head past the low angle section of the wall and it is the first route to the right.
Protection
Slings and gear up to 2" There is a solitary bolt on top of the cliff that is used for top roping.
A few comments on the description. There are several bolts on the top that can be used for a top rope, and you should not use just one. The route is about 35 feet.
The route takes finger and hand sized gear at the roof. I have also seen someone place, and fall on, a large cam right under the roof. After the roof, the gear is sparse (some may say that it does not exist).
The upper crux is probably the best crux sequence at Capen Park.
By Will Cobb From: Flagstaff, AZ Mar 7, 2009 rating: 5.9+
I always liked this route because the crux came just at the very top. During my short time in Columbia it seemed like this route would get TRed quite often but rarely led. Karp would show up from time to time and lead the thing, but I never got up the nerve.
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