Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Mississippi Buttress
Select Route:
Congo Corner T 
Link, The T 
Mississippi Buttress Direct T 
Mississippi Variant T 

Mississippi Buttress Direct 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Roy Horseman 1927
Page Views: 413
Submitted By: rdlennon on Nov 17, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Route goes straight up center of frame

Description 

One of the best VS routes at Stanage and one of my favorite routes of all time. Sustained, varied, steep, aesthetic- this is the definition of classic. The climb generally follows a left facing flake system in a shallow corner on the face of Mississippi Buttress. Make a bouldery start on angular, slightly overhanging sandstone fins to gain a bridging rest. Here the rock begins to feel more like grit. Using a series of hand jams, improbably high steps, and bold smears on the left side of the corner, layback your way past a series of tricky bulges to gain a low-angle ladder of flakes. Hike these to the summit.


Location 

Takes the shallow inside corner smack in the middle of the hulking Mississippi Buttress, just right of Congo Corner. Descend via a gully left of the Buttress.


Protection 

Can easily be done with passive gear. Plenty of finger width cracks and slots on this one.



Comments on Mississippi Buttress Direct Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -