||Boulder, 1 pitch, 15'
|Consensus: || Hueco: V4+ Font: 6B+ [details]|
|FA: ||by Tyler Alexander Garrett|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||581|
|Submitted By: ||Tyler Garrett on Dec 14, 2012|
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Fun dyno before the finish.
Update: By J. Thornton on Dec 25, 2012
This problem is actually on Big Overhang wall, and is same start as Hidden Jewel.
---- Thanks for the help J. Thornton. -Tyler
1080p HD Video of the first send by Tyler Garrett VIA GoProCam.
When working this out I felt like we were on mission impossible because of how close to the ground you are, can't even get a pad underneath it. Luke, a sick sick sick sport climber, thinks this is a V5, but since I made the video I'm calling it a V4 ;-) because I sent it first.
There are a lot of ways to go about solving this problem. My beta/moves will make it V4. A lot of intermediate moves to get to the finish but these moves will give you a challenge. At the very least do the start, drop into the bottom shelf, and work your way to the largest shelf and continue on to the finish, I wouldn't give the other beta more than a V2 rating.
Two hand start, fall into the lower shelf of holds. Heel hook and move your way up to the crimpy right hand then off to the AMAZING pocket on the left. From their high feet and dyno for the sloper. The slope is a terrible hold, very sharp rocks near the top, and bumping to the last pocket from this is very challenging and I would consider it a V4+ if you use the slope and bump to the finish.
Now remember boys and girls... bouldering or free climbing as they call it, is not allowed in the Park... But one climber is allowed to free climb to set the top rope! But only one person can do it!! So every time you start bouldering, be sure to tell everyone what your intent is.
Hope you enjoy the route, drop some feedback in the comments.
The print out guide at the front office isn't very well done, but if you can navigate to #33 on the print out ..I guess.. , then you have found it. Basically walk down the stairs, and keep left, until you walk through a somewhat tight crack. Keep left! There it is.
Take a knee to spot your friends. Throw the pad down so the drop isn't 2 crazy, considering it is on a downhill slant and all rock.
By J. Thornton
Dec 25, 2012
Looks good. This problem is actually on Big Overhang wall, and is same start as Hidden Jewel. The pocket you end at is the same pocket mentioned in the Hidden Jewel route description.