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J-Crack Slab Area
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Mission Impossible 
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Mission Impossible 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type: Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: George Hurley, Dave Rearick, 1975
Page Views: 1,678
Submitted By: Charles Vernon on Jul 7, 2001
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Description 

Mission Impossible is a fun, thin corner on the extreme right of the Book. Hike up to the Book and continue rightwards past J-Crack and Femp. A long gully lies just right of Femp; to its right is a smooth slab with a clean crack (that doesn't reach the ground) on its left (Endless Crack), and a line of (currently) 1/4" bolts just right of that. Mission Impossible takes the corner system that borders the slab on the right. Start up into the LF corner, with a perfect 5.9 finger crack. The corner becomes very steep and thin; instead, take the flake to the left (crux, tricky gear) through blackwashed rock. Continue up a wider but easier crack to a rappel anchor. From here, a 60m rope will get you to some ledges just above the ground. Otherwise, continue up the moderate corner line until it is possible to walk off right and merge with the bottom part of the Book's 4th-class descent route.


Protection 

Bring a double set of small stuff (include a few RPs), and a couple larger Friends for the top.



Photos of Mission Impossible Slideshow Add Photo
John Langston at crux of 1st pitch, taken Sep 2001 by Stacy Bender
John Langston at crux of 1st pitch, taken Sep 2001...
Approaching the crux on the first pitch.
Approaching the crux on the first pitch.
Patrick Clarke approaches the crux on top rope. I placed a bomber #1 (red) Camalot under the undercling flake from this stemming stance on lead. It is just below your feet as you move onto delicate face moves.
Patrick Clarke approaches the crux on top rope. I ...
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By Nate Christiansen
Jun 27, 2003

Some fairly delicate foot work for a 10a. not pumpy, but delicate.

By David Conlin
Oct 9, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

No more "delicate" than a 10a should be. Good route when the weather is iffy and you only want one pitch. There are two cruxes, 9+ down low laying back around the first bulge and 10a up higher as you leave the dihedral for the "flake," if you can call it that. A long step out left for a crystal eases the move considerably.

By Kre
From: Colorado
Sep 21, 2004

I found this to be a very satisfying route. Committing, yet do-able with good edges for your feet. I was able to protect the crux with a blue alien and small stoppers. I had RP's with me, but didn't use a single one!

By Joe Santambrogio
Jul 31, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Great day of climbing on this while Femp, Pear Buttress etc. was all cued up...we linked five or so pitches for a full day, Mission Impossible to Endless Crack to the cave, to Outlander...one of my favorite days climbing...full value run back to the gate at Mac Gregor in the pouring rain too.

By Be Esperanza
From: Asheville, NC
Aug 24, 2006

This was my first 10a, and I thought it was a good one. While you can't place gear above you for the first 10a section, you have a bomber #1 BD at your feet. I placed a purple TCU in the flake which was alright, and then made a move higher to find good gear. Fun climb with thoughtful moves.

By Eli Helmuth
From: Estes Park, CO
Jun 5, 2008

One of my favorite Lumpy 10a pitches. Good pro, thought-provoking moves, long 30m pitch, and with the added bolt to the threaded-sling anchor, easy to top-rope three other stellar routes/variations to the right of 11a, 11b, and 12a which is nice when the summer storms are looming overhead and you don't want to risk getting zapped 200' or higher off the ground.

By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jun 18, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

From below, the gear at the crux flake looks like it's not there, but in fact small cams alleviate any doubts and make the crux moves relatively casual. The moves are certainly more delicate than some of the neighboring crack routes but not overly strenuous. The 2nd "pitch" can be made a bit more interesting by avoiding the gully and moving out right to the rounded corner. This is 5.6X in my opinion but worth it for the exposure.