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Mission Gorge

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Mission Gorge Rock Climbing 

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Location: 32.8187, -117.056 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 413,951
Administrators: Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 25, 2006
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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Mission Gorge climbing area from the road.

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>


Mission Gorge is located in the Mission Trails Regional Park - Routes include traditional, sport, and a few clean aid lines.

Getting There 

From Interstate 8 - Take 8 to the Mission Gorge/Fairmount exit. Turn north onto Mission Gorge Road. Continue down Mission Gorge Road for approximately 4 miles. Look for the large wooden park sign on Mission Gorge Road. Turn left onto Father Junipero Serra Trail. Park along the road prior to the gates, or in the dirt parking lots next to the visitors center. The climbers loop trails are on the right side about 0.4 miles down Father Junipero Serra Trail as marked by kiosks.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.4 miles from here

169 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',59],['2 Stars',89],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Mission Gorge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Mission Gorge:
The Ramp   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Lunch Rock
The Tower   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 50'   Limbo Area
Skyline Arete   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Lunch Rock
Shadowfax   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Earth
Craig's Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 35'   Limbo Area
Crack of Dust   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Main Wall
Mission Gorge Traverse   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Wall
As the Crow Flies   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 45'   Limbo Area
Mission Control   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Lunch Rock
Suzie's Wild Ride   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
Hangman's Climb   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   Main Wall
Mariah   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Wall
Khazaddum   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 30'   Middle Earth
Monkey Dance   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Limbo Area
Standard Deviation   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Limbo Area
Prime Directive   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, Sport, 50'   Main Wall
Escapade   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
Orange Sunshine   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Middle Earth
The Wasp   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Main Wall
The Thumb   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   Main Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Mission Gorge

Featured Route For Mission Gorge
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig's Crack - Mission Gorge

Craig's Crack 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  CA : San Diego County : ... : Limbo Area
Probably the most jammable crack at The Gorge. Great hand jams on sticky rock all the way up. The top gets a little wide, but not too bad. I would liken it to an easier version of The Robbins Crack. It is slightly longer than Robbins too! Would be an area gang-roped classic if its location were more obvious.There are at least two other climbs on the same rope for a TR. Make sure your rope does not get pinched in the top of the crack like another's has. There was a bee hive near here not l...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Mission Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:  the "Wasp"  Epperson shooting Allenby 1...
the "Wasp" Epperson shooting Allenby 1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Craig's crack. Splitter!!!
Craig's crack. Splitter!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: I ran into this little guy on my way to the main w...
I ran into this little guy on my way to the main w...
Rock Climbing Photo: Old school Mission Gorge bolts.
Old school Mission Gorge bolts.
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the Pops!!!
Top of the Pops!!!
Rock Climbing Photo: 5.easy chimney on far left side of Main Wall
5.easy chimney on far left side of Main Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Recently upgraded Mission Gorge climbs.  The quali...
BETA PHOTO: Recently upgraded Mission Gorge climbs. The quali...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climber's Loop kiosk trail photo.
BETA PHOTO: Climber's Loop kiosk trail photo.
Rock Climbing Photo: General Dynamics 5.11a...
General Dynamics 5.11a...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climbers Loop Kiosk
BETA PHOTO: Climbers Loop Kiosk
Rock Climbing Photo: Kyle Weinstein on the Thumb!
Kyle Weinstein on the Thumb!
Rock Climbing Photo: the best time to climb at the gorge during the war...
the best time to climb at the gorge during the war...
Rock Climbing Photo: Amazing MG sunrise
Amazing MG sunrise

Comments on Mission Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 25, 2015
By Ladd
Apr 21, 2007
Rock here is so slick, footwork is ultra-important
By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 16, 2009
This is my favorite place to climb in San Diego and the only sane option within the county for hot summer months due to the northwest orientation. Show up early and head home when the mid-day sun hits.

Mission Gorge has a high concentration of quality climbs. I can't think of another cragging location in San Diego where you can knock off so many routes in a day. My personal record is 24, each of us leading half the routes. For real though, 10 routes from gate opening at 8am to lunchtime is standard operating procedure.
By Lzpup
From: santee, ca
Feb 8, 2012

SDG&E is trying to build a Power Plant next to Sycamore canyon (Santee boulders), and Mission Trails Park. They have filled plans to build it and are moving forward. 11 100 ft smoke stacks spewing death down on to our favorite climbs. Please get informed and get involved. ... ng_comment

meeting every Tuesday at Pinacle peaks steak house 6:30, until they quit.
By claudio ricardez
May 17, 2013
PDF of (A.M.) Mission Gorge Topo
By PaoloQ
From: Flagstaff, Arizona
Jul 16, 2014
Went to the gorge to climb today (07/16/2014) and the climbers loop trail is closed because of the recent fire that burned through mission trails. I did not see when they were planning to lift the restriction but for now, nobody is allowed through. Although we did see some people climbing/hiking anyway.
By ChadC
From: San Diego CA
Aug 18, 2014
Went to the gorge on 08/16/14 and only the main wall was open. Limbo area and Middle earth were both closed because of the fires. Everything was super crowded because of this. Get there early on weekends if you don't want to have to wait in line for routes.
By Joe McDonough
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 18, 2014
Is the Gorge open now?
By tomrobinson
From: San Diego/ Denver
Feb 25, 2015
All of the Gorge is now open. Middle Earth, Limbo and the Main Wall

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