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Mission Gorge
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Alley Oop Boulder 
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Middle Earth 
Underworld, The 


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Mission Gorge 


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Administrators: Adam Stackhouse, Marc Kajut, M.Morley, Sam Vanderhyden, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Marc Kajut on Jan 25, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Climbers Loop Kiosk

Description 

Mission Gorge is located in the Mission Trails Regional Park - www.mtrp.org. Routes include traditional, sport, and a few clean aid lines.


Getting There 

From Interstate 8 - Take 8 to the Mission Gorge/Fairmount exit. Turn north onto Mission Gorge Road. Continue down Mission Gorge Road for approximately 4 miles. Look for the large wooden park sign on Mission Gorge Road. Turn left onto Father Junipero Serra Trail. Park along the road prior to the gates, or in the dirt parking lots next to the visitors center. The climbers loop trails are on the right side about 0.4 miles down Father Junipero Serra Trail as marked by kiosks.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mission Gorge:
The Ramp   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Lunch Rock
The Tower   5.7     Sport, 50 feet   Limbo Area
Skyline Arete   5.7+     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Lunch Rock
Crack of Dust   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Main Wall
Shadowfax   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Middle Earth
As the Crow Flies   5.8     Sport, 45 feet   Limbo Area
Craig's Crack   5.8     Trad, 35 feet   Limbo Area
Mission Control   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Lunch Rock
Mission Gorge Traverse   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet   Main Wall
Suzie's Wild Ride   5.8+     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Main Wall
Hangman's Climb   5.9     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Main Wall
Apostrophe   5.9     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Limbo Area
Mariah   5.9+     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Main Wall
Monkey Dance   5.10b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Limbo Area
Prime Directive   5.10c     Trad, Sport, 50 feet   Main Wall
Lord of the Rings   5.10c     Sport, 1 pitch, 25 feet   Middle Earth
Escapade   5.11a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Main Wall
Orange Sunshine   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Middle Earth
Black Rider   5.11b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Middle Earth
The Thumb   5.12c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35 feet   Main Wall
Browse More Classics in Mission Gorge

Featured Route For Mission Gorge
Left of chimney (Room with a view)

Rocking the Dalai Lama 5.11c  CA : San Diego County : ... : Middle Earth
Will edit with more pertinent info after leading, but on top rope the route was very enjoyable. WIth strong moves off the bat but with positive holds. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA


Photos of Mission Gorge Slideshow Add Photo
Climber's Loop kiosk trail photo.

BETA PHOTO: Climber's Loop kiosk trail photo.

Recently upgraded Mission Gorge climbs. The quality ranged from deteriorating to downright dangerous. Being older, most of these are the original climbs people were having fun on back in the day. Go get back on these lost treasures!

BETA PHOTO: Recently upgraded Mission Gorge climbs. The quali...

Old school Mission Gorge bolts.

Old school Mission Gorge bolts.

5.easy chimney on far left side of Main Wall

5.easy chimney on far left side of Main Wall

Mission Gorge climbing area from the road.

Mission Gorge climbing area from the road.

the "Wasp" <br />Epperson shooting Allenby 1986 <br />photo Ron Amick

the "Wasp"
Epperson shooting Allenby 1986
photo ...

the best time to climb at the gorge during the warmer months... just don't get locked in!

the best time to climb at the gorge during the war...


Comments on Mission Gorge Add Comment
Show which comments —
By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Apr 21, 2007

Rock here is so slick, footwork is ultra-important

By mschlocker
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 16, 2009

This is my favorite place to climb in San Diego and the only sane option within the county for hot summer months due to the northwest orientation. Show up early and head home when the mid-day sun hits.

Mission Gorge has a high concentration of quality climbs. I can't think of another cragging location in San Diego where you can knock off so many routes in a day. My personal record is 24, each of us leading half the routes. For real though, 10 routes from gate opening at 8am to lunchtime is standard operating procedure.

By Lzpup
From: santee, ca
Feb 8, 2012

Hello,

SDG&E is trying to build a Power Plant next to Sycamore canyon (Santee boulders), and Mission Trails Park. They have filled plans to build it and are moving forward. 11 100 ft smoke stacks spewing death down on to our favorite climbs. Please get informed and get involved.

santee.patch.com/articles/sunset ... ng_comment

meeting every Tuesday at Pinacle peaks steak house 6:30, until they quit.

By claudio ricardez
From: ESCONDIDO
May 17, 2013

files.meetup.com/409936/sandiego_rock.pdf
PDF of (A.M.) Mission Gorge Topo