Mission Gorge Traverse 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | A Long Time Ago |
| Submitted By: | mschlocker on Jun 24, 2007 |
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Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>
- Thanks to ACSD for providing the following updates!
- Poway Crag's Ramona Wall and Miller Time Wall have a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August 31st annually dur to nesting raptors
- Glen Cliff has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- Mt Gower also has a closure in effect from Dec 15th through August, or if/when it is determined that nesting is not occurring
- In recent years, Gower has been home to seasonally nesting raptors. To avoid human disturbance of nesting activities, advisories may be in effect from around December through August. Check the ACSD and CNF websites for details.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description A very unique experience in the heart of Mision Gorge. Traverse along the top of the Main Wall. We did left to right but it probably goes well both ways. Decent hand jams in a horizontal crack that splits the entire main wall. Feet tend to be greasy as usual at the Gorge. Many awkward moves throughout the climb but no real show stoppers. The holds just open up right when you need them. Make sure to protect your second! Only follow this route if you would also feel comfortable leading it.
Location Start at the top of Crack of Dust. Rightmost anchor on the ledge. Finish on top of a pillar of The Wasp.
Protection Full rack from Black Alien to #4 Camalot. Nuts not that useful. Slings to clip rusty anchors along the way.
Following the Mission Gorge Traverse. Keeps you t...
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1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse
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b/w beauty
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humpin' the bump
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where's that next greasy foot?
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streeeetch
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cramped
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| Comments on Mission Gorge Traverse |
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By saltlick
From: the bedroom
Oct 25, 2010
| Fun route, possibly easier right to left (I felt)...somehow the greasier feet hooked up better that way. Only used pro to 2" myself... |
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2011
| I was following this today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.
Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG! |
By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Jan 7, 2012
| Be sure to place protection for the follower! If you run it out you will leave him looking at a grounder. |
By AlexK
Jan 21, 2012
| Super fun route. I found gear of all sizes to be useful, even nuts. This is an equal opportunity crack. Moving over the bulges near the top of nutcracker can be tricky, but I found the slippery feet near the finish to be the crux. |
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