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 ADVANCED
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absorbine Junior TR 
Blocks Direct, The T 
Blocks, The T,TR 
Bridging the Gap S 
Buckwheat S 
Caterpillar T,S 
Cave Crack T,TR 
Chicken fart T 
Chicken Heart T 
Cornered TR 
Crack of Dust T 
Empathy S 
Escapade S,TR 
Exit Stage Left T,TR 
Exit Stage Right / The L Word T 
False Mission Gorge Traverse.  
Fingerrip T 
Gallwas Crack T 
General Dynamics T,S 
Handyman  T 
Hangman's Climb S,TR 
Intrinsic Value TR 
Knob Job TR 
Knob Job Bypass  T,TR 
Laundry Chute T 
Left Overture TR 
Lilley's Delight T 
Mariah T,TR 
Master of Defeet S 
Mickey Finn S 
Misbegotten 
Mission Gorge Traverse T 
Never Intended S 
Nutcracker T 
Obverse from the Gap S 
Owl, The T 
Perception of Buzzy Fuzzy Pelt, The T 
Prime Directive T,S 
Quack of Ducks T 
Quantum Leap S 
Rectum Roof T 
Rock On T,S 
Rock On Right S 
Sierra Club Chimney T,TR 
Suzie's Wild Ride S 
Sympathy T 
Thumb Aid Climb, The 
Thumb, The S 
Trapeze T 
Unnatural Act TR 
Waiting for Bruce S 
Wasp, The T 
Unsorted Routes:

Mission Gorge Traverse 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: A Long Time Ago
Page Views: 3,283
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jun 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Description 

A very unique experience in the heart of Mision Gorge. Traverse along the top of the Main Wall. We did left to right but it probably goes well both ways. Decent hand jams in a horizontal crack that splits the entire main wall. Feet tend to be greasy as usual at the Gorge. Many awkward moves throughout the climb but no real show stoppers. The holds just open up right when you need them. Make sure to protect your second! Only follow this route if you would also feel comfortable leading it.


Location 

Start at the top of Crack of Dust. Rightmost anchor on the ledge. Finish on top of a pillar of The Wasp.


Protection 

Full rack from Black Alien to #4 Camalot. Nuts not that useful. Slings to clip rusty anchors along the way.



Photos of Mission Gorge Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
Following the Mission Gorge Traverse.  Keeps you thinking.
Following the Mission Gorge Traverse. Keeps you t...
cramped
cramped
humpin' the bump
humpin' the bump
where's that next greasy foot?
where's that next greasy foot?
1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse
1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse
streeeetch
streeeetch
b/w beauty
b/w beauty
Comments on Mission Gorge Traverse Add Comment
Show which comments
By saltlick
From: gym
Oct 25, 2010

Fun route, possibly easier right to left (I felt)...somehow the greasier feet hooked up better that way. Only used pro to 2" myself...

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2011

I was following this today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.

Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG!

By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Jan 7, 2012

Be sure to place protection for the follower! If you run it out you will leave him looking at a grounder.

By AlexK
Jan 21, 2012

Super fun route. I found gear of all sizes to be useful, even nuts. This is an equal opportunity crack. Moving over the bulges near the top of nutcracker can be tricky, but I found the slippery feet near the finish to be the crux.