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Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Absorbine Junior 
Blocks Direct, The 
Blocks, The 
Bridging the Gap 
Cave Crack 
Chicken fart 
Chicken Heart 
Crack of Dust 
Exit Stage Left 
Exit Stage Right / The L Word 
False Mission Gorge Traverse.  
Gallwas Crack 
General Dynamics 
Hangman's Climb 
Intrinsic Value 
Knob Job 
Knob Job Bypass  
Laundry Chute 
Left Overture 
Lilley's Delight 
Master of Defeet 
Mickey Finn 
Mission Gorge Traverse 
Never Intended 
Obverse from the Gap 
Owl, The 
Prime Directive 
Quack of Ducks 
Quantum Leap 
Rectum Roof 
Rock On 
Rock On Right 
Suzie's Wild Ride 
Thumb Aid Climb, The 
Thumb, The 
Unnatural Act 
Waiting for Bruce 
Wasp, The 
Unsorted Routes:

Mission Gorge Traverse 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: A Long Time Ago
Page Views: 3,015
Submitted By: mschlocker on Jun 24, 2007
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A very unique experience in the heart of Mision Gorge. Traverse along the top of the Main Wall. We did left to right but it probably goes well both ways. Decent hand jams in a horizontal crack that splits the entire main wall. Feet tend to be greasy as usual at the Gorge. Many awkward moves throughout the climb but no real show stoppers. The holds just open up right when you need them. Make sure to protect your second! Only follow this route if you would also feel comfortable leading it.


Start at the top of Crack of Dust. Rightmost anchor on the ledge. Finish on top of a pillar of The Wasp.


Full rack from Black Alien to #4 Camalot. Nuts not that useful. Slings to clip rusty anchors along the way.

Photos of Mission Gorge Traverse Slideshow Add Photo
humpin' the bump
humpin' the bump
Following the Mission Gorge Traverse.  Keeps you thinking.
Following the Mission Gorge Traverse. Keeps you t...
1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse
1/4 thru on a right-to-left traverse
where's that next greasy foot?
where's that next greasy foot?
b/w beauty
b/w beauty
Comments on Mission Gorge Traverse Add Comment
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By saltlick
From: the bedroom
Oct 25, 2010

Fun route, possibly easier right to left (I felt)...somehow the greasier feet hooked up better that way. Only used pro to 2" myself...

By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 12, 2011

I was following this today and one of the three bird littered blocks at the top of Nutcracker, the nice one you can hug, broke free while i was hugging it (probably about the size of my upper torso or so?). Thankfully it wasn't while climbing Nutcracker, it would have been a horrible fall and incredibly dangerous (likely deadly if hit head-on) for the belayer.

Careful with the sheltered bird-harboring rocks at MG!

By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Jan 7, 2012

Be sure to place protection for the follower! If you run it out you will leave him looking at a grounder.

By AlexK
Jan 21, 2012

Super fun route. I found gear of all sizes to be useful, even nuts. This is an equal opportunity crack. Moving over the bulges near the top of nutcracker can be tricky, but I found the slippery feet near the finish to be the crux.