Missing the Obvious  5.8+ PG13

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet Consensus:  5.8+ [details] FA:  T. Bubb, J. Cioci, 1994 Season:  Any, but can be wet Submitted By:  Tony B on Oct 4, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

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Description 

This climb was named after it's history. It was handed over for a try by a would-be F.A. party who could not figure out how to get started on it. After I did it, this resulted in much forehead slapping- the obvious had been missed.

Start up into the crack and get stemmed into a chimney and then pull right and up onto a horizontal gap in the rock. On the FA a vertical tube-chock protected this section, as there were no huge cams or big pros available. Move right out of the horizontal slot and up into another chimney to the top. A good line with some grunting.

Location 

On the far right side of Willie's Wall- a chimney system divided by a horizontal gap past mid-way.

Protection 

A rack with some big-bros and some long slings.