Miss Piggy's Pleasure  5.8 PG13

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Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet Consensus:  5.8 [details] FA:  ???? Season:  All year. Sun in winter. Most optimal mid Spring/Fall Submitted By:  Burt Lindquist on Nov 12, 2012 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Miss Piggy's Pleasure takes the line of the rope o...

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Description 

At the start the climber can take the face either side of the corner to gain the ledges at 20 foot mark or climb the corner strictly. The climbing is bit harder on the corner strict. Above the 20 ft ledge the story is the same but staying near the central rib is much more fun and sporty. At about the 3/4 mark the climber is drawn onto the face left on broken but steep rock then back over to the steep arete on the right to gain the final left angling crack to finish.

Location 

Climbs the corner mostly between the routes The Balcony to the left and Green Bulge to the right.

Protection 

Pro is non-existent at the start on the face right of the corner and on the corner itself. There is thin crack pro to the left side of the face left if that way is taken. Above the 20ft ledge there is assorted sketchy pro on the right face (small wires and cams... make sure to use long slings as you will be climbing left of all this soon). On the rib at 1/2 point there is good small wires and Ballnut options and then on the steep broken rock above there are nice larger horizontal options for cams plus small wires in incipient cracks, etc....

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The final moves of Miss Piggy's Pleasure on the le...