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Miss Gultch 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 1,796
Submitted By: Scott Tucker on May 9, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Ian stretching out as he works his way up.

Description 

Stem up chimney then onto right face. Fun to watch new climbers fresh from the gym try to face climb one of the walls. More fun to watch your short-legged friends get butt-cheek-cramps while stemming.

Location 

In wide chimney between first two towers. Bolts go up right side then onto face.

Protection 

Bolts & chains.


Photos of Miss Gultch Slideshow Add Photo
Sweet sustained stemming before the slab finish.  Emily on her first chimney.
Sweet sustained stemming before the slab finish. ...
Emily on the tricky slab finish.
Emily on the tricky slab finish.
Fun climb.  Munchkinland Bolt Spacing.
Fun climb. Munchkinland Bolt Spacing.

Comments on Miss Gultch Add Comment
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By Timothy Roehr
From: Tucson,Az
Aug 14, 2006

This climb scares people for some reason. Guess they never learned to stem. It is an easy 5.6 if you stem it. Scott says it would be closer to 5.10 as a face climb. I would rather stem it myself.
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Sep 23, 2007

I was scared on this route. It wasn't extremely difficult, just feels weird when you look down and the rock is on your sides and not in front or behind you. I have never done a chimney. But I get scared on anything that I don't have to rely on handholds for!
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 1, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

the stem isn't very hard but the face at the end is probably more like 5.7-. since 5.7- isn't available i rate this one at 5.7. i found it quite fun.
By 1Eric Rhicard
May 11, 2009

Watched a beginner lead this today and wished they had a helmet. Had they fallen before getting the stem I would have been on my first rescue as he surly would have hit the wall behind him.
By Slaton Whatley
Aug 15, 2009

As a fairly new leader I ventured up this climb hoping it would be on the easier side due to the stemming. While trying to transfer over to the face I peeled off and fell some how stopping myself in the chimney. It would have been a nasty fall like the previous poster wrote. Not hard climbing but not a clean fall at all if you do fall. Helmets are a plus for newbies like myself.
By Brigette
From: Seattle, WA
Oct 7, 2009

Helmets are a plus for anyone with a skull they'd like to keep intact. $.02
By Robert Hunter
From: Tucson, AZ
Jul 24, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I was a little dubious about this climb, having heard many people describe it as "heady". Finally TR'd it today, and simply loved it. Other than a couple of chimney moves, it is mostly super fun stemming. The slabby finish is a nice change-up. Joe Lee's advice is right on: don't transition to the right face until it starts to fade away, at which point you can comfortably latch on to some bomber holds.
By KLSHARK
Aug 20, 2010

as a short person... this problem challenged me to think about and trust foot placement. butt-cheek-cramps for sure! the chimney adds immense thrill too!
By Don Stump
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
May 20, 2011

Rob talked about this climb the day before so I had to try it. There were times when I was scared because of that empty space beneath you. Chimney climbs are totally different feel but once you get the hang of it was easy. There was a time when I was doing the newbie thing and face climb the right side. My belay, Sara, had to mention that there is a big rock face directly behind you and after that things got better. Finish the climb with no falls, but didn't on-sight it as I would have expected.

Climbed this again on Sunday the 22nd and was expecting it to be easier, but it wasn't. Still a difficult head game for me and I will be back again because of the fun climb it is. Can't wait to "red point" it.
By Steve Lenhardt
Jul 23, 2014

I am a solid 5.9 climber and had a super hard time with this climb both times I did it. The chimney is fairly easy and I support the 5.6 designation. However, I would put the top closer to a 5.10. No joke. So, if you are a new 5.6 leader I would take caution jumping on this before top roping it.