|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||T. & D. Swain, 1995|
|Season: ||any but winter|
|Page Views: ||2,172|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Apr 7, 2006|
|Good Page?||0 people like this page. Your opinion: |
My wife saluting me. Guess maybe we should not com...
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This climb starts up a left-facing corner to a bulge and onto a small ledge to the left side of a roof. Pass this while moving right and around the roof, up to a fixed anchor.
I do not remember the second pitch well, but Swain states that you need draws for the 'many bolts' to continue up the second pitch on the right... I don't recall how many myself.
Rap on two 60 meter ropes from the second fixed anchor to the ground.
This is the next left-facing corner to the left of the area classics Mazatlan and Ixtalan, and is just to the right of the route Miss Conception.
A standard Rack + draws.
Nearing the top of P-1 of Miss Conception.
short nice hand crack.
No real need to, but the first two pitches combine...
Miss Conception. Fun route!
Mo on P-2 of Miss Conception.
|By SexPanther aka Kiedis|
May 2, 2007
Did this route today, and I'd give it 3 stars. Definitely more fun than Sand Felipe, although the overall quality of the bolts affects the fun factor of the climb. Assuming Swain hangers hold falls, I'd reccommend this one to anyone looking to stack on a few more pitches after doing some of the classics nearby. ASCA: this route needs a safe rap anchor! Two bolts, one really rusted hanger located six feet above the last, connected by rotting tat-ugh. Like the Misunderstanding, this one can be rapped with one rope, and the bolts on the second pitch number 10 or less. It is a sport pitch; I hope that's helpful-no gear required after first anchor.
From: Las Vegas
Jun 17, 2011
Great route. Pitch 1 takes single rack to 2", with double #2's. Pitch 2 is bolts, probably around 8 of them. All bolts and anchors are new and solid. 2 raps with a single 60 get you down.
From: North Kingstown, RI
Feb 2, 2012
How can the route Miss Conception be "...just to the right of the route Miss Conception." Do you mean "The Misunderstanding"?
May 5, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b X
climbed it today, found it at least 3 stars. third pitch is added but ends up with a runout to a 2 1/4 bolt anchor, don't understand why this anchor hasn't been changed as well.
with this hanging belay at two 1/4 absolutely dangerous! Recommend not to do the third pitch although it is the best of the three!
|By Scott Cooper|
Nov 4, 2013
Second pitch is stellar. Great exposure and fun moves.