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Unsorted Routes:

Mismatched Partners 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Thomas Lund, Mike Johnson, 1989
Page Views: 542
Submitted By: Brandon Schirm on Sep 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Description 

A little runout, this climbs the wall directly beneath a juniper tree and right of a wide crack. The crux is a little spicy with a bolt at your feet, but shake out on a good foot and hand. Then do a sidestep to a jug.

Location 

This is beyond the Future Wall next to The Lesser Of Two Evils.

Protection 

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.


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By Chris Perkins
From: Avon, Colorado
Apr 12, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This route should be avoided. Sling anchor on weak tree, no rings or biners.
By slim
Administrator
Apr 13, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

The last time I looked at this route, it appeared that the first hanger had been flattened. I agree, not the best route at Shelf.
By Dustin Clelen
From: Boulder, CO
Jan 7, 2013

Consider this post a "like" of the two posts above. Weird, poorly protected climbing on chossy rock (up high) with no anchor except for a dead juniper. There are much better routes at Shelf at this grade.
By Jason Young
From: Los Alamos, NM
Nov 16, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

The bolt with the smashed hanger was chopped and completely replaced on 11/09/2013. All other hangers were replaced and new bolted anchors were installed.