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Misled Youth 

YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jonathan Garlough
Page Views: 820
Submitted By: chinos on Mar 29, 2010
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Serious body tension is required to pull this crux...

Description 

This route climbs the main buttress up the tallest part of the cliff. Climb up an easy slab to lone bolt. Continue up the slab with thin moves to gain a horizontal with a gear placement. Make moves up to a big flake and clip a bolt. Make the crux moves up to a jug and clip the third bolt. Make a hard mantle move to gain a ledge. Take a rest and then follow the arete past horizontals with gear to ring anchors at the top.


Location 

Central wall


Protection 

Normal rack, 3 bolts, ring anchors.



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Henry working out the moves
Henry working out the moves
The route
The route
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By chinos
Feb 17, 2011

the crux is a bit height dependent

By burlap submariner
Apr 14, 2011

I remember doing this last season and finding it very difficult for me to get established in the undercling, a core work out for sure.