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Short Wall
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Misfits 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli, Chris Goplerud
Page Views: 1,098
Submitted By: Jeff G. on Jun 5, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Stem it if you can!
Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This climb is on the Short Wall, which is just to the East and a little South from Plumb Line. It is short, but offers excellent thin-hand jams to a wild, overhanging finish where you need the #4 Camalot. The last few moves are the crux.

Per Brian Weinstein: A pretty corner that starts at fingers and thin hands until you encounter the roof. Pulling the roof is the crux.

Eds. This route was submitted twice into the database. The information is combined here under the original submission.


Protection 

2 #0.75 Camalots, 1 #1 Camalot, 1 #2 Camalot, 1 #4 Camalot. There are bolts at the top and it would also be easy to scramble up and set up a TR.

Per Brian Weinstein: Finger-size (yellow TCU, etc.) to #4 Camalot for the roof.


Location 

Per Brian Weinstein: This is the middle of the three routes on the lower tier...a distinct corner.



Photos of Misfits Slideshow Add Photo
There are two bolts atop for a rap.
There are two bolts atop for a rap.
Crux lieback.
Crux lieback.
Rock wrestling.
Rock wrestling.
Comments on Misfits Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dean Cool
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 18, 2011

Great route and a must if you are in the area. Unlike its neighbors, there are bolts at the top but no rap rings, so you will still need to walk off.

By Morgan Nutting
From: Bishop, CA
Sep 4, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Gotta admit never thought about doing that wide stem, fun little route.

By Nick Stayner
From: The Magic City
Sep 5, 2012

Super classic, full on rounded edge lieback to crux flop to the top. The corner that makes up the first part of the pitch is CLASSIC!