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Mischievous Moroni
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.2 from 13 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
FA: | Luke Douglas,Tyler Phillips '07 |
Page Views: | 1,026 total · 5/month |
Shared By: | Luke Douglas on Nov 5, 2008 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch1-From the grey bolt that marks the start move up and slightly left, aiming for a short left facing corner.As you approach the corner keep alert for any TCU placements.Two more bolts deposit you on a ramp.Make your way across the ramp to a ring piton which marks the path through this jumbley roof. A traverse,above the roof and to the right will lead you to the anchor. 5.10a
See topo this page.
For an alternate start you can skip the bolts and go directly up the ramp to the ring pin.
Pitch 2-Pad your way up to the black roof, taking care to slot a #0 at the roofs left apex.Make some hard and balancy moves over the lip and follow the shallow corner up to a second roof.A pin at the roofs lip leads to a bolt and the belay. 5.10a
Pitch 3-If you have followed the Mischievous Ones path this far keep the faith and persevere. Your reward is near. See the GOLDEN PLATES route description for pitch 3
See topo this page.
For an alternate start you can skip the bolts and go directly up the ramp to the ring pin.
Pitch 2-Pad your way up to the black roof, taking care to slot a #0 at the roofs left apex.Make some hard and balancy moves over the lip and follow the shallow corner up to a second roof.A pin at the roofs lip leads to a bolt and the belay. 5.10a
Pitch 3-If you have followed the Mischievous Ones path this far keep the faith and persevere. Your reward is near. See the GOLDEN PLATES route description for pitch 3
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