Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | C, Harrison, S. Michaels, 1981 |
Page Views: | 753 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Tony B on May 27, 2010 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
A so-so route with more lichen and loose rock on it than a single star would indicate. Thusly, a bomb. The climbing itself was not bad, but with really nothing to redeem itself, having less than great rock quality puts it in the category of things that I'd tell people not to bother with.
Location
The route lies just left of Parallels and Clean Dan on the West Ridge. It is accessed by going up a short and shallow, right-facing corner for 3 meters and left behind a tree to reach more solid rock... once there drift left into a very small and shallow "notch" resembling a tiny broken dihedral that faces directly outward... up that crux on some crimpers past some bad gear and one loose-tips-sized (maybe ~0.3") cam in a VERY specific placement, just above a broken flake that would NOT hold... and then up and right across some slightly less-than-vertical face running it out for the upper half of the route on moderate climbing (5.7) to a tree with a few bits of webbing, a tiny rapid link, and a junk biner off of my nut tool that I backed it up with. Rap 80' to the ground.
Protection
And few pieces early on, the rope behind a tree, a few more pieces including very small brass in less-than-perfect rock. The last and most critical gear is a small cam in a small section of crack that is solid, right above a broken section that won't hold good gear. This will be it for a while and is only 1/2 way up the route.
The route gets a well-deserved R-rating in the Levin guidebook.
The route gets a well-deserved R-rating in the Levin guidebook.
Photos
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