Mirage 5.11a/b PG13
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Bernard and Kiki Vanwestingham - 1992 |
| Submitted By: | Josh Janes on Dec 4, 2006 |
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KA bearing down on Mirage. Photo by Chris Brown (...
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Description Mirage climbs the righthand margin of a beautiful west-facing wall of orange rock just before reaching the Golden Gloves area. There are two obvious bolted lines on this wall -- Mirage is the right; Brazen Serpent is the left -- the two routes share the first bolt.
Start at the center of the wall and climb up and right to the first bolt. Continue up to the obvious undercling below the roof. I recommend placing a cam here (there are spots for blue & yellow TCUs as well as a 0.5 Camalot) with a long runner to alleviate the pressure of not blowing the second clip. Undercling right and head up a blocky section of rock to a second clip. From here pull up and onto the steep face/arete above (crux, several ways to do it) and continue clipping bolts up the thin, tricky arete to bolted anchor.
Protection 10 draws and a finger-sized cam or two.
KA bearing down even more..photo by Chris Brown (h...
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By 426
Mar 8, 2007
rating: 5.11a/b PG13
| Super fun!
Alternately, you can stick clip the second bolt to obviate the need to place some small cams--given that your stick is long enough. |
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Feb 28, 2010
| Nice route on very good stone. I thought the upper crux was pretty cool.
I don't think this really warrants PG13. Yes, it is a bit run-out between one and two but it's very easy jug pulling with big holds to clip the second. |
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