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El Capitan
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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A4

Type:  Trad, Aid, Grade VI
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a A4 [details]
FA: Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz, Jim Pettigrew, 5/76.
Page Views: 3,474
Submitted By: Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006

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First pitch pendulums. Photo by Blitzo.

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>


1.)From near the bottom of the sandy slopes of EL Cap Gully, Make three Pendulums right, to the base of a left facing corner and a bolt belay.
2.)Climb the corner to bolts and dowels to a two bolt belay.
3.)Nail an A3 arch to two bolts then tension right to an A2 crack. Belay at a small ledge. This section is expanding.
4.)A 5.8 A3 pitch leads through corners and bolts to a hanging belay.
Tension right to an A3 pitch to a ledge with a bolt.
5.)Follow a corner, bolts and A1 to a sling belay.
6.)An A4 pitch leads past a small bivi ledge and up to a bolt belay.
7.)An A1 pitch leads to a ledge.
8.)Another pitch of 5.8 A1 leads up and left under a roof, then move up then right to a corner system. pendulum left at the top to a sling belay.
9.)A 5.9 pitch leads to a ledge.
10.)Another 5.9 pitch leads to a belay by a bush.
11.)A 5.8 A1 pitch leads to the top of an arching corner.
12.)Follow a gully for a pitch.
13.)An A2 pitch leads to Thanksgiving Ledge.
Four more pitches lead to the top, or finish on the "West Face Route". Four pitches, all free.
It's been over 20 years since I've done this route. I strongly suggest referring to "Yosemite Climbs, Big Walls" by Don Reid, if you can find a copy.


This route is up and left of the "West Buttress".


5KB, small stuff to 1.5".

Photos of Mirage Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Sun peeking around the West Buttress, from near &q...
Sun peeking around the West Buttress, from near &q...
Rock Climbing Photo: A sea of blankness. Photo by Blitzo.
A sea of blankness. Photo by Blitzo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up fixed lines on "Mirage", 1985...
Looking up fixed lines on "Mirage", 1985...

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