Mirage  5.9 A4

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Type:  Trad, Aid, Grade VI Consensus:  5.9 A4 [details] FA:  Jim Bridwell, Kim Schmitz, Jim Pettigrew, 5/76. Submitted By:  Blitzo on Oct 24, 2006 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Looking up fixed lines on "Mirage", 1985.
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>> The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

1.)From near the bottom of the sandy slopes of EL Cap Gully, Make three Pendulums right, to the base of a left facing corner and a bolt belay.
2.)Climb the corner to bolts and dowels to a two bolt belay.
3.)Nail an A3 arch to two bolts then tension right to an A2 crack. Belay at a small ledge. This section is expanding.
4.)A 5.8 A3 pitch leads through corners and bolts to a hanging belay.
Tension right to an A3 pitch to a ledge with a bolt.
5.)Follow a corner, bolts and A1 to a sling belay.
6.)An A4 pitch leads past a small bivi ledge and up to a bolt belay.
7.)An A1 pitch leads to a ledge.
8.)Another pitch of 5.8 A1 leads up and left under a roof, then move up then right to a corner system. pendulum left at the top to a sling belay.
9.)A 5.9 pitch leads to a ledge.
10.)Another 5.9 pitch leads to a belay by a bush.
11.)A 5.8 A1 pitch leads to the top of an arching corner.
12.)Follow a gully for a pitch.
13.)An A2 pitch leads to Thanksgiving Ledge.
Four more pitches lead to the top, or finish on the "West Face Route". Four pitches, all free.
It's been over 20 years since I've done this route. I strongly suggest referring to "Yosemite Climbs, Big Walls" by Don Reid, if you can find a copy.

Location 

This route is up and left of the "West Buttress".

Protection 

5KB, small stuff to 1.5".

Photos of Mirage Slideshow

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Sun peeking around the West Buttress, from near "M...	A sea of blankness. Photo by Blitzo.	First pitch pendulums. Photo by Blitzo.