Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Laurel Knob
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Second Way (Variation Finish to Seconds) T,S 
Aloha slab T 
Annie Get Your Guns T 
Arrested Development  T 
Before the Settlers Arrive T 
Better late than never T 
Biopsy T 
Black Flag T 
Buried Treasure T 
Canyons of Laurel T 
Central Pillar Direct Finish T,S 
Central Pillar of Laurel T 
Clippidy Doodah... S 
Clowns to the Left of me T 
Cotton Pony  T 
Cruising with the Top Down T 
Defective Sonar T 
Dike hike - Monster Groove T 
Dillard Arete T 
Don't call me surely T 
Dry streak T 
Fathom T 
Fathom Direct T 
Fathom Escape Hatch T 
Finger Lickin' Good T 
Friction Addiction T 
Frolictown T 
Fruit of the Poisonous Tree T,S 
Funky Chicken, The T 
Get it while it's hot T 
Gibbet , The T 
Girl friend route T 
Groover (Fischesser Finish) T 
Groover (Gaskin Finish) T 
Groovin' in the name of the Laurel T 
Have and Not Need T,S 
High & Dry T,S 
Hone Ranger T 
Hypocrite's Corner T 
Jokers to the right  T 
Keel Hauled T 
Laurel's Girdle T 
Legendary "F" Bomb, The T 
Manatee Fluid T 
Mechanical Bull T,S 
Mirage  T 
Mirage Direct Finish T 
Monster Groove Direct Start T,S 
Monster Groove Reject Start T 
Mutiny T 
Nana's Bananas T 
Nanna Gets Her Groove On T,S 
No Sir (?) T 
O.K. Corral T,S 
Oasis T 
Old Times' Sake T 
Permission Granite T 
Pirate's Cove T 
Pirate's cove Alt start T 
Pirate's Cove direct finish T 
Puff The Magic Dragon T 
Quantum Mechanic's Arete T,S 
Rejected Radar T 
Route Of The Living Dead T 
Seconds T 
Squirrely man T 
Steep in the Teacups of Laurel T,S 
Stegg, Roy Fathom ALT. T 
Stellar Sonar T 
Stemming Laurel T 
Stingray T 
Unfathomable T 
Use It Express T 
Use It Or Luge It T,S 
Use it or Luge it Direct Start T 
Walkin' Da Plank T 
Wild Turkeys T 
Wild Wild West  T,S 
Wormhole T 

Mirage Direct Finish 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 210'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Andrew M. and Shannon Stegg
New Route: Yes
Season: Any
Page Views: 748
Submitted By: andjoely on Nov 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Photo Topo. I ripped the photo from one of Nathan'...

Description 

This is a good direct finish to mirage with pumpy overhanging terrain with good holds for LK (including a few jugs on an overhanging wall!)

As described below, it starts from the top of pitch 3 of mirage. Though very good, Pitches one and 2 of mirage are usually wet so an alternative way to get to the start of this direct finish is to climb to the top of the second pitch of Oasis and then climb 5.8 slab to the 2 bolt anchor in the lower oasis. Pitch 3 of mirage goes through the headwall here to the upper oasis then the direct finish goes straight through the headwall above the upper oasis instead of going out right to lower angled terrain as the standard finish to mirage does. The direct finish is very much climbable when the groove is running water as was done on the FA and FFA and the rope does not get wet.

Pitch A: Climb overhanging orange corner with bomber gear to a jug on the overhanging wall. clip a bolt then make bouldery thin face moves left to get established in deep water groove. Climb the usually wet groove past 3 more bolts to 2 bolt anchor (5.12b, 90 feet)
Pitch B Climb face right of groove past some gear to ledgy area then continue up to a bolt in a bulge and make bouldery moves to get established over the bulge and into the much easier groove to the left. Continue to belay at one bolt and gear in a pod (#1 and #2 camalots)(I did not put in this bolt and have no idea what route it is part of) (5.12a, 120 feet)
From here you can traverse left to anchors of permission granite or fathom direct to rappel or you can continue straight up the easy groove above to the top (an alternate finish to fathom)

Both pitches were pinkpointed on the FFA

Location 

Starts from the upper oasis which is reached by climbing pitch 3 of mirage after reaching the lower oasis by either climbing the first 2 pitches of mirage or oasis.

Protection 

Well protected except very easy runout terrain on pitch B

before first bolt on Pitch A, a rack of nuts and cams to #2 camalot is needed for the short corner (hybrids useful) after the 2nd bolt on that pitch, there is a brown tricam placement.

On Pitch B, a light rack of cams to #2 camalot is needed. Hybrids are useful as always


Comments on Mirage Direct Finish Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -