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Minutia 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 35'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX British: E6 6b [details]
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Page Views: 478
Submitted By: LeeAB on Jun 27, 2010
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Minutia
Closed for Sensitive Archaeological Resources MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a fun little route that is surprisingly long for how low it is to the ground through out.

Climb out steep rock on mostly good holds with the occasional undercling staying to the right of the bolt line. Eventually you will make tough moves around a large square block embedded in the wall near the 3rd bolt (crux, in this area is a variation finish which heads straight up and looks hard) After this head out the roof a bit more past another bolt, then more or less up through some smaller but positive holds pulling the bulge onto the face above.

This route can be started in several places.

  • From a sit start well below the line of bolts, this would add about 15 feet of roof climbing before you get to the highest possible start, might even add a letter grade.
  • The highest, most logical start is from a high jug with a square lip that has a coat of epoxy on it. This hold id just big enough to get two hands into.
  • You could also start the route anywhere between these 2 points


Location 

This is the furthest left start in the left hand cave. The fixed chains have brown tape on them and there is an additional "first" bolt a little further left of the line to keep the rope out of the way. Climb out the roof past 4 fixed chains then up the headwall.


Protection 

One bolt to the left of the line, clippable from the ground to keep the rope out of the way. Followed by 6 bolts with fixed chains and brown tape holding the biners. 4 out the roof and 2 more straight over. Lower off the last bolt or move left to an anchor.

A good belay is a must as you could hit the ground from just about anywhere on this route



Photos of Minutia Slideshow Add Photo
Ben Hanna tries to get a shake before the finish <br />Minutia (5.12+)
Ben Hanna tries to get a shake before the finish
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