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At the crux moves.
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
The short tips/fingercrack just to the left of The Womb. Looks a lot harder than it is. Lots of feet. Starting from the top of the large shelf, pull up into an awkward flare, then a couple of good fingerlocks to gain the crux. The crux is short and involves a few hard pulls on tips locks to gain the huge handrail. Then easy moves to the anchor.
The plaque doesn't give a rating but Troutman says the first ascensionist gave it 5.12-. Feels easier than that, unless the upper handrails are off limits, in which case this route would be significantly harder. Regardless, it's a fun, short climb that protects well with small gear.
Fairly obvious to spot, there is a large plaque that says "Minute Man" at the base of the climb. You can start by climbing the obvious thin hands crack to get on top of the large shelf or you can bypass the thin hands and access the top of the shelf from the left. The business starts from the shelf.
Thin gear, from #0(green) to #2(yellow) C3's. Mostly green C3's. #0(purple) Metolius also work well if you don't have enough green C3's.
Apr 11, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
really cool opportunity to climb a desert route on small gear at a reasonable grade. wish there were more like it!
By Jay 1975
Mar 19, 2015
packs quite a whoopin for being so short. 11+/12- maybe?