Starting from the slab, you can lean out and get your hands on a nice jug. At this point you have a few good feet to choose from, but that will all change. Pull up, throw a foot around the corner and pick between foot holds that are tiny or slippery. For a long time i tried to make a move left to get established on the slab but now i find it works better going a bit more direct only moving slightly left around the corner then up. once established on your feet use fingernail crimps as you step out right to stand on the starting jug. From here climb straight up the sometimes wet streak leading in to a short fist crack. the slab leading to the crack won't stop you but might slow you down a bit.
Starts at the bottom of Cat Walk on a ledge below a roof with a right facing corner. Best way to find it is to locate the lone bolt right of the Armpits crack, look down and right from there for a nice hold at the lip, start below that hold.
or just look at the route map :)
Top Rope, or if you stick clip the high first bolt a regular rack will get you safely to the top with a bit of a run out at PG13ish, actually id just bring a #3 camalot and whatever I need for an anchor.
|By lee hansche|
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 17, 2010
I think this line was originaly graded 5.11+ or something.... after climbing it i found it to be V4+/V5 which puts it (by modern standards) in the 5.12 range... i couldnt put a solid letter grade on it... fun route, and a great puzzel...