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Minor A2 Pulley...
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Oct 20, 2012
Though I realize this topic has been covered before, I did not find someone asking a question similar in severity...

I trained at the gym two days this week; climbed tuesday, didn't feel any sort of finger pain, climbed wednesday, warmed up, felt a little bit of twinge in my finger, and decided to climb through it. It hurt a bit during the session and I've now taken since Wednesday off and haven't noticed much improvement in the finger.

It is in the digit closest to the palm, palm side. When I squeeze the digit the left side seems to be fairly tender and the right side and middle just less than that. The injury is weird in that it doesn't hurt at all to hang or climb on anything unless i am fully crimped at a 90 degree angle with my fingers. When I hang on a door frame crimped (which is when it hurts the most), I'd say the pain hurts no more than a 2 or 3.When I am crimped, the pain is occurring in the meat of the last digit of my middle finger on the palm side.

I keep reading that injuries like these take many months, which seems ridiculous given the amount of pain i'm in. Does anyone have any experiences with very minor tears like these? Any chance I might actually get to climb this winter? I've got a rice bucket and have been doing the cold water baths suggested by dave macleod. any other ideas?

Zane Dordai
Joined Feb 21, 2011
94 points
Oct 20, 2012
my two cents... I dont know a lot about pulleys, but i know two people that have had pulley issues, one minor ( they're 100% now ) the other is stuck in a trigger finger position for life. Both injuries rendered the finger incapable of opening all the way. First guy went to the doc fast and got a brace, took awhile but its all good now. Second guy waited to long, making it impossible to heal even with rest and a brace.
Do not pull at all for two weeks, if there is no improvement then go see a doctor. pulleys take special care to heal properly and you don't want to be hurt long term. Injuries suck but its the way she goes. If it turns out your pulley has a full or minor rupture than be patient and do what you gotta do, one season off isn't the end of the world.
Chas Waterman
Joined Sep 24, 2011
45 points

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