After careful inspection on rappel, this route is somewhat a mystery to me. I solo-toproped the first pitch, which is a fun 10+, but could not find the rest of the route. An impressive roof sits directly on top of the anchors for the 5.10, but no means of protecting it seem to exist. No bolts, no space for natural gear. Perhaps the bolts have been chopped? I eased myself off of the anchors into space, and jugged up the rope for the last 1-2 pitch(es), which were covered in lichen. After asking several people about it, the route is still a question mark. If anyone can speak to the status of the route, please do.
Location
The right side of the big roof that also holds Ego-itis. Close to below the new wooden observation platform, maybe a little to the west.
I solo-aided the first pitch this summer, and had hoped to lead the second as well. Like you, I jugged the last pitch, finding it quite blank even to aid. The first ascent party assures me it goes, but A3 is tough stuff. I'd like to go back with a belayer.
Were you expecting bolts? The Pagel guide indicates bolts at the belay only.
Anyway, it was interesting to see your remarks because the route seems to get next to no traffic.
Farris' description goes like this: three pitches. (10+, 11+, C3). He describes the first pitch as I found it, a 10+ free route. For the second he says, "Turn the roof, and belay (5.11+)." He even put a belay dot on his picture topo for the route. I expected to find either gear placements or bolts, and to find the "belay" that he talks about above the roof. I found none of these things. If the "second pitch" is freeable at 11+, I would love to hear about it. It seems unlikely to me, but there could be enough features. It would be more like a step up from Narcoleptic Epic than a step down from Ego-itis. Great to hear from someone else that's been on the thing, and good luck aiding it. Cant wait to hear how it goes.
It's been years since I've aided it, but it definitely goes. If I remember correctly bring some small RPs and a sky hook. It's thin, but everything is there. There are only bolts at the belay.
Te entire route goes free, but the roof is pretty stiff.
Shovel Point
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