Stuck in the spotlight, it is hard to miss the line. Start up Superior Crack for 15 feet or so until you can traverse right onto the arete via edges. The route weaves its way up the arete switching sides now and then, with the crux at a small roof 1/3 or so the way up. Excellent stone and movement.
We are trying to avoid having this type of discussions at sensitive areas on the site. This route is relatively new and just has not been lead yet...that is all! It is a wild and complicated line also really fun. I just did the first TR about 5 years ago. Go out and climb a few of the nice 5.12 leads and you will understand the ethic. Most climbs have been lead. Email me privately for any beta. I thought maybe I should weight in here. I feel one should climb the areas test pieces to understand ethics and style. I lead all the classic here before adding a single route.
By James Loveridge From: Duluth, MN Apr 25, 2008 rating: 5.12b
Thanks Dave! We are 100% in Agreement. There are a dozen "hard" routes one should lead within the established ethic of the crag before even thinking about putting up new ones (which are pretty much tapped out until we convince the Park Service to lift the fixed gear ban or modify/adapt it's climbing policies (this is not likley to happen quickly with the bureaucracy the Gov is famous for...). If you wanna work something new on TR, go for it!
I also wanted to add my name to the list of contacts for beta/info. Dave and I are the main activists here recently (along with Jeremy Schlick and Seth Dyer but they have moved to less topographically challenged locales). Please feel free to e-mail us through the "Contact" link on the personal page of this website.
Palisade Head
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