Mike Farris's guidebook mentions a chockstone wedged at the end of the first pitch. This chockstone, backed up with a #4.5-#5 cam could at the time be used for a hanging belay. We repeated the climb in October 2006 and the chockstone is no longer there. We ended up on a hanging belay off two large cams. I would recommend setting a safer belay sooner -- on the ledge on Christmas Tree Crack. It's on the left just past the overhang.
This was one of the first 5.10 trad routes I ever tried, and I was in way over my head. The first pitch is a wonderful, sustained, slice and dice affair with great pro. On my first attempt, I took what was, to my young mind, a monster whipper on this pitch (perhaps 25 feet - and my first lead fall). Shaky and scared, I placed all my gear low, and didn't have anything bigger than a number 9 hex, and number 3 camalot. After climbing above my last piece - that number three camalot, I gunned it for the belay ledge, and whipped out of a couple of fist jams near the end (first fist jams I ever did). I finished the pitch, but in poor style (without lowering and pulling rope). Without anything bigger than a number 3 camalot, the second pitch was all but un-protectable. My partner climbed up a little ways, girth hitched a round stone half-way lodged inside the crack, and having no other way to protect the crack, almost shit his pants as he climbed above the "pro". He came down, and gave me the sharp end. I climbed the big right leaning crack without gear, and placed the number three camalot just as the crack wrapped around the corner. I will never forget going around the corner, having no idea what I would find (we didn't bring the topo), and seeing an unprotectable hand traverse stretching far to my right. I finished the pitch and we finished the route, and it stands as one of the best experiences of my life. I went back last year and did the route again with another partner, without falling, and with gear that fit the crack. It wasn't as hard as I remember (I now know how to jam, and have climbed much harder routes), but it was just as good, with some of the best exposure and best climbing in the region.
That's a cool story. When I climbed it with Adam Therneau, we set up a hanging belay on that chockstone and were both hanging off of it. Then, standing at the second belay, I heard Adam yell to me that the chockstone moved as he stepped on it. We were lucky. I guess this thing eventually fell off on its own or else we'd hear about it.
I would definitely recommend a double set of #2-4, with a 4.5 and/or a 5 for the upper section. This can be done in two pitches, with enough runners to help the drag, and would make a stellar first pitch. The traverse is creepy; the razor sharp edge feels like its going to break off at any instant! Classic route.
Palisade Head
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