Exposed climbing on the arete. Photos- Fred Skemp...
Description
This line was origanlly top roped by Rick Kolath. To lead it though, you have to climb the left side of the dihedral and left arete to be able to place pro, instead of climbing large hollow flakes and blocks on the further right side (which is easier) after the crux. I cleaned the arete and discovered excellent moves on sound and exposed stone. Thus, nearly half of the dihedral is climbed on the arete.
Start on a cushy belay ledge. The climbing starts out with stemming and edges with a few good finger jams below the crux. The crux involves hiking your feet up into a splitter stem, with a shitty jam (I found one finger to be the key) and a slopey crimp. Then deadpointing or stretching for the distant jugs. After your feet are on the jugs think left... At a small ledge with a slight bulge above you work left to easier climbing to the top on good, but still scruffy rock.
Location
The route is about 30 feet south of Road to Emerald City. Maybe 60 feet south of Danger High Voltage.
Protection
Small wires and brass are ticket with some bomber blue Metolius or the same BD down low. The crux is well protected. The top 15 feet or so is run out, but the climbing there is 5.7ish or so. Yellow and orange Metolius or the likes in a jaggedy horizontal are your last pieces. Nuts or small hexes or tricams even may work better here.
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This is the crux move going big with Dave Groth gi...
Just after the crux.
ahh yes...
The lake, the end of the hard climbing, and a pack...
In the begining...
In the begining...
BETA PHOTO: Anchor shot. Belay from top down in the niche. P...
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