Mountain Project: Climbing Tettegouche SP (North Shore)

Tettegouche is the crown jewel of Minnesota climbing. Palisade Head boasts 100 or so climbs with potential for more and Shovel Point holds dozens of climbs. Dramatically positioned over Lake Superior, both areas carry an air of seriousness not found at other Minnesota crags. All climbs must be rapped in to lead or top-roped from above.

There is a strict no-chalk ethic in the area and nailing and bolting is not allowed. That being said, you will occassionally find people using chalk here and you will find old in-situ pins as well as old (and not so old) bolts on some climbs. A free permit to climb is required by the state park and can be picked up during business hours at the park headquarters. Some people get passionate about the chalk debate.

Both areas are good places to wear helmets as tourists abound. Be nice to them and hopefully they'll be nice to us.

Getting There

Just north of Silver Bay and about 60 Miles north of Duluth on Highway 61. It's pretty hard to miss the sign for Tettegouche.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Tettegouche SP (North Shore):

Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries 5.8 TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Shovel Point

Phantom Crack 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet Palisade Head

Bluebells 5.9 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet Palisade Head

Scars and Tripes Forever 5.10a Trad, 200 feet Palisade Head

Ross's Crack 5.10b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet Shovel Point

Laceration Jam 5.10b R Trad, 3 pitches, 200 feet Palisade Head

Rapprochement 5.10b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 120 feet Palisade Head

Urge to Mate 5.10c Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 45 feet Palisade Head

A Feathery Tong 5.10d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 150 feet Palisade Head

Driving in Duluth 5.11b R Trad, 100 feet Palisade Head

Hidden Treasure 5.11b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet Palisade Head

Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" 5.11b Trad, 1 pitch, 105 feet Palisade Head

Yellow Feather 5.11c Trad, 75 feet Palisade Head

Narcoleptic Epic 5.11d Trad, TR, 70 feet Shovel Point

Poseidon Adventure 5.11d PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet Palisade Head

Mr. Lean 5.11d Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110 feet Palisade Head

Soli Deo Gloria 5.12b Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet Palisade Head

Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) 5.12b Trad, 1 pitch, 175 feet Palisade Head

Superior Arete 5.12c TR, 1 pitch, 100 feet Palisade Head

Palisaid 5.13a Trad Palisade Head

Featured Route For Tettegouche SP (North Shore)

Climber in yellow on Hidden Treasure, climber in purple on Phatom Crack, and climber in green on Bluebells.

Hidden Treasure 5.11b MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head

A somewhat sustained route in a corner using a combination of jams and stemming. I remember the crux being about half way up. This route is slightly overhung, so if pop off before you are about half way up, you may need to be lowered and start over. Fortunately the crux is up high enough that I was able to get back on after popping off there. The rock is rather sharp in places....[more] Browse More Classics in MN

Comments on Tettegouche SP (North Shore)

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By K Ice
From: Saint Paul, MN
Jun 10, 2009
CONDITION REPORT

The Peregrine falcons are back on Palisade Head, and seem to be on their nesting site. It is on last years "No Sugar, No Baby" climbing route. This is also the same site as 2001, 2002, 2003, and 2008.

We have closed the area between routes called "Hidden Agenda" (route 81 in Pagel's Superior Climbs book) through "Poseidon Adventure" (route 94 in Pagel's Superior Climbs book). These routes will be closed until the birds fledge, usually about late July. We are sorry for any inconvenience.

By Tony B
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 4, 2007

If I recall correctly from the late 80's/early 90's there was an older book for the North Shore areas of Lake Superior (IE Tetagouche- Palisade Head and Shovel Point) made a big deal about how that rock was so rare... That it was Rhyolite and that it was found there and in Turkey (yes, the country).

But if you go to the NM page, the comments there include some regarding rhyolite climbing there.

Can someone confirm that there was such a book in print and that it did say that? My memory is usually very accurate for that sort of thing, but 20 years is a long time for minutia.

By TravisMelin
From: La Crosse, WI Blacksburg, Va
May 9, 2008

Anyone been able to climb up here yet this season? I am thinking about coming up may 18... What is late/mid may weather like up there?

By Dave Rone
From: Eau Claire, Wis
May 11, 2008

I've been hoping to get up there too, as I'm sure many have, but weekend weather hasn't been cooperative. What's it like in mid/late May? Anybody's guess. Could be shorts and tshirts, could be sideways snow. Keep an eye on weather forecast and cross your fingers!

By dbrdhd
From: Marquette, MI
6 days ago

I was wondering how the conditions have been with this warm spell? Also how would you predict the climbing to be in a few weeks?

By Tyler Overby
From: MN
6 days ago

A couple of us were up there this past weekend. Beautiful conditions. everything we got on was bone dry. Danger, driving in duluth, ex nihilo, and a couple others.
There's been people climbing up there for a few weeks now. Make the hike up there, well worth it to climb without hordes of tourists.

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Tettegouche SP (North Shore)

Description

Getting There

The Classics