A fun climb beginner climb, that is also very leadable. When I lead it I rapped down to a small ledge (maybe 25 ft above the water) and built an anchor and climbed up from there. If you are top roping you can lower all the way down to the water. The route follows a dihedral with a large crack in it and allows for some good jamming.
RCM&W #23, p.235.
Location
This route is towards the end of shovel point, maybe 100 yards or so down the trail from Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries. This route begins in a dihedral, near one of the many boarded lookouts/rest areas. I'll try to add better beta after my next trip to Shovel Point.
Protection
Standard Rack with a few large pieces, I racked to a #4 camalot and felt pro was adequate. Webbing off trees for the TR setup. There maybe be large bolts installed by the forest service atop this route.
I didn't lead this route but seconded it. For pro a #6 BD cam is nice or big bros.
The belay was all hanging, we rapped and then set the anchor right as the crack gets to a hand crack. There is a little ledge but like 1 ft. out maybe, not much of a ledge.
The crack is a very odd one. Its about big enough for half your body but not big enough for chimneying. My brother almost fell out of the off width and he would have hit me and that would have been an epic. So just a heads up.
And yes now there is two humangous bolts on the top of the climb, they are very nice.
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