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Shovel Point

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A Dream of White Sheep 
A Study in Scarlet 
Cornered 
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries 
Did Plato Love Trees? 
Ego-itis 
Gold Plated 
Great Barrier Roof, The 
Great Yawn, The 
Narcoleptic Epic 
Ross's Crack 
Sacred Biscuit 
Straight, No Chaser 
Straw House 
Tree Route, The 
Wake Up and Smell the Coffee 

Shovel Point

Submitted By: nodin on Apr 12, 2006
Administrators: Glenn Burns, Darin Limvere, James Loveridge
Views: 4,144 page views

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Shovel Point as seen from Palisade Head.


Description 

The more moderate of Tettegouche's two sea cliff crags, Shovel is more popular with boy scout troops, church groups and top ropers. This notwithstanding, more than a handfull of full value classics are to be found here. Must-dos include Dance of the Sugarplum Fairies, Gold Plated, Rosses Crack and others.

This spot is popular with tourists as well and they will likely watch you climb and ask you questions.

You are encouraged to stay on the trails and use the new statepark placed anchors (the biggest bolt hangers ever!). Be kind to the trees as well...


Getting There 

Park at the statepark rest stop and hike northeast following the signs.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Shovel Point:
The Great Yawn   5.6     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet   
Dance of the Sugar-Plump Faeries   5.8     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
A Dream of White Sheep   5.9     TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Gold Plated   5.10b     TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet   
Ross's Crack   5.10b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   
Narcoleptic Epic   5.11d     Trad, TR, 70 feet   
Browse More Classics in Shovel Point

Featured Route For Shovel Point
KD climbing what I think was Ross' Crack, June 2004.

Ross's Crack 5.10b  MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Shovel Point
I have only ever top roped this route from above, but it is also possible to lead it in 2 pitches. The first pitch is reported to be 5.8 and mediocre. For top roping lower about 60 feet to a tree and climb the dihedral stemming your way to the top. There are several old pins within the thin crack, that are about the only protection I remember towards the top if you were leading it....[more]   Browse More Classics in MN


Photos of Shovel Point Slideshow Add Photo
Shovel Point on a cloudy February morning.

Shovel Point on a cloudy February morning.

View from the top

View from the top

Shovel Point.

Shovel Point.

Setting up a belay on I think Ross's Crack.  Spring 2004.

Setting up a belay on I think Ross's Crack. Sprin...

Can't remember which route, spring 2004.  Amazing place.

Can't remember which route, spring 2004. Amazing ...

Can't remember which route, scan of a print, spring 2004?

Can't remember which route, scan of a print, sprin...


Comments on Shovel Point Add Comment
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By Paul Ross
From: Colorado
Jan 25, 2009

This crag was opened out by Paul Ross and assistants while working for Minn Outward Bound School about 1976/7 .At that time here was not even a trail out to the cliff . There was a massive amount of loose rock on most of the climbs when first ascented.At this time about 12 climbs were first ascended up to 5.10, some for the use of students and some for their own personal fun.

By Brian Weinstein
Jan 26, 2009

Paul,
Was that the story for Palisade as well?