8/9/07: I'm surprised this route was not in already. It has been about 5 years since I climbed it so I will try to edit this post if someone reminds me of details. It was fantastic. I have a good memory of crimping hard high above the lake on a sunny day. Long and strenuous. Slightly more than vertical makes for good exposure. I only top-roped it but the bolts were in good condition at the time. 5.10d in the Mike Farris guidebook, and that sounds about right. 10/15/07: Thanks for comments Dave Rone - I changed the length to 150 feet.
Location
From above it is on a prow just north of Danger High Voltage, about 10-20 feet away. Near pointy orange rock. Set an anchor over the edge and have your belayer lower you almost to the bottom, or rappel. Stop a little below the first bolt or where the rock gets dirty from high water. If you might not be able to climb it all you will need another way to get yourself to the top.
Protection
Lead: Bolts and one section that calls for a roughly hand-sized cam. I think after the first couple bolts there was a horizontal crack where the cam would fit, and a runnout until the next bolt. Maybe some other opportunities for supplementary pro.
Top Rope: If you have trouble setting topropes at the North Shore it is because you don't have a long enough piece of webbing.
Climbed this route on 10/13/07. Misread the rating and thought at 10b it would be a good warmup climb. It warmed me up alright! 10d for sure and sustained.
But with about a dozen bolts (I didn't count them), seemed more like sport than trad climbing to me. The bolts are further apart than the 'typical' sport climb so no doubt small to med stoppers and cams help fill in between bolts.
And it's longer than 110', more like 150-160 to the talus.
Palisade Head
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