8/9/07: I'm surprised this route was not in already. It has been about 5 years since I climbed it so I will try to edit this post if someone reminds me of details. It was fantastic. I have a good memory of crimping hard high above the lake on a sunny day. Long and strenuous. Slightly more than vertical makes for good exposure. I only top-roped it but the bolts were in good condition at the time. 5.10d in the Mike Farris guidebook, and that sounds about right. 10/15/07: Thanks for comments Dave Rone - I changed the length to 150 feet.
Location
From above it is on a prow just north of Danger High Voltage, about 10-20 feet away. Near pointy orange rock. Set an anchor over the edge and have your belayer lower you almost to the bottom, or rappel. Stop a little below the first bolt or where the rock gets dirty from high water. If you might not be able to climb it all you will need another way to get yourself to the top.
Protection
Lead: Bolts and some supplemental gear. See comments below for more up to date pro suggestions [7/21/09 update]. Sounds like 12 draws minimum.
Top Rope: If you have trouble setting topropes at the North Shore it is because you don't have a long enough piece of webbing.
Climbed this route on 10/13/07. Misread the rating and thought at 10b it would be a good warmup climb. It warmed me up alright! 10d for sure and sustained.
But with about a dozen bolts (I didn't count them), seemed more like sport than trad climbing to me. The bolts are further apart than the 'typical' sport climb so no doubt small to med stoppers and cams help fill in between bolts.
And it's longer than 110', more like 150-160 to the talus.
By Sevve Stember From: St. Paul, MN May 4, 2009 rating: 5.10d
The "orange pointed rock" is very distinct. Look for a symmetrical pointed, orange rock and throw the rope over this to the left side. The falcon guide tells you to stop on a ledge, but we went all the way to the ground. Just keep looking down as you rappel and you will see bolts basically all the way down. Some of the edges toward the top are sharp. Beware while toproping.
for rappelling, a 70m will not reach the ground. we set up a single line rappel between danger high voltage and the top out of feathery tong. this way, the rappel line did not interfere with leading.
climb takes 11-12 draws.
look for a pin between the fifth and the sixth bolt.
gear is needed in the section below the second to last bolt. the crack -- which is rad! -- takes #2 to .4 BD cams (two are sufficient). use runners for these pieces.
By BIATHLON From: Duluth Mn Jun 2, 2009 rating: 5.10d
I placed a totaly of 4 small cams but probably could have got away with 3, very safe lead.
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