This route is maby 10 ft at the most to the north of Soli de Glori. Rotton rock at start, difficult crack climbing on an ever changing crack. Once you reach the ledge at mid hight gear becomes more suspect as the rock is more crumbly up higher. It seems that someone has cleaned it over the years allowing better and larger placements in the upper dihedral. Over all it is a good route, mostly clean and devoid of shrubs and other growth. Just some friable rock up high that maby could be cleaned.
By randy baum From: Minneapolis, MN Sep 20, 2009 rating: 5.11d
finally climbed this. i didn't lead it, and i'm glad. that rock up high is mo' shitty. i pulled off a shoe box-sized rock right below the lip.
that said, the thing is leadable. just be careful up there...it's almost as manky as the rock at the base of wise guys.
a lead would take small cams, nothing bigger than a #1 camalot.
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