The route starts below a small overhang with an undercling in it about 15 or so feet right of E. Climb up through overhang and out onto good edges to the seam. Follow the seam up a bit and you hit the crux. A powerful off balance layaway will hopefully get you up enough to fit your tips into a bottleneck jam- Follow the ever growing seam/crack as it widends to fingers and ends eventually with 15 feet of handjams and laybacking to large ledge. Seth Dyer- second and probably only other lead ascent. At least get down there an TR the thing.
Location
North Anex, right of Ecclesiastes.
Protection
The pro is pretty jacked at the start. The first decent piece is a shallow #6 BD wire broad side out. It would hold body weight for sure, but a fall... Some better wires in the crux itself. Purple Metolius above the crux and then an assortment of cams the rest the way.
Palisade Head
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