A good climb on mostly good rock. The chimney is pretty wide so as to be comfortable and featured enough so as to be climbed without grunting, and close enough to the edge for the claustrophobic. It is to be found in the longest (highest) parts of the central ramparts of the Palisade Head, a few hundred meters N. of the popular crack routes: Quetico, Superior and Phantom. Rap in as per these other climbs, then walk to the base of this north-facing chimney.
Location
This route is the obvious wide chimney that can be seen from the top of the cliffs up North. Although one can clearly see the chimney, photographing a climber in it is entirely another matter. You'll likely get one arm and one leg in most shots...
Protection
A standard rack. Pro can be tricky to place here and there, so take it when you get it.
Led this yesterday and really enjoyed it! Fun chimney that has interesting pro(lots of chockstones). 5-10ft. below the top has one of the most interesting moves on any route at the head! I won't say too much, only that I literally crawled sideways on my belly in the chimney.
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