Pocket of Pain 

FA:  Arseny Pekurovsky? FA barefoot: Alex Oenes Type:  Boulder Consensus:  V3-4 [details] Length:  14 feet Views: 340 page views Submitted By: Nathan Migdal on Jul 3, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Each line shows general area (within one foot) of...

Description 

First things first: This description needed revising, so here goes. The V3 approach is sit starting off a small pocket (using any other holds within reach to assist) and climbing straight up, only to move right along a gritty shelf near the top to a solid finish. For a stronger burn, start off traversing right from the pocket then gradually upwards to end on the same topout holds as before (V4). This approach goes under the best crimps and uses only the right edge of the grit shelf for hands. An all-around straightforward problem worthy of a little hype, Pocket of Pain puts your contact strength to the test and reveals any flaws (don't I know it) in one's big reach climbing technique. Godspeed to you all.

Location 

East on the big rock. Look for a mouth-sized pocket close to the ground.

Protection 

crashpad and maybe some climbing tape in case the flappers come out to play.

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A slightly more artistic perspective

Your one-and-only good sit start hold for this pro...