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Betty's Pie 

V5+

   

FA: Jim Merlie
Type: Boulder
Consensus: V5+ [details]
Length: 12 feet
Views: 146 page views

Submitted By: Sean Butler on Oct 17, 2009


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BETA PHOTO: Dream Scheme


Description 

A really fun climb with some cool moves. start on the left side of face, work up arrete on crimps until you have to roll through right into the sloping top out. A lower start is probably possible.


Location 

From the warm up slab walk to the right and down the hill. the boulder is just up from the backside of poppy cock and vag bager


Protection 

a few pads



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By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009

has been done,
Fa Jim Merlie.

Name????

I will ask him, good work. I tried that thing and thought it was hard.

By t sweeney
Oct 19, 2009

i told you that was done before butler.....jeez! alittle anxious for the FA eh?

just kidding.. this is such a sweet prob. nice job

By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009

hahahah,


Yo, I am not sure where you started but Jim showed me the problem a year or so ago? I couldn't even move really. From what I remember it was hard. He called it a 6 from a lower hold? I think that grade is ridiculous.

Is there a Hold on the face? I remember trying the start from a hold on the face???? but I could be wrong.

Brian Camp also did a weird little problem Down and left (if you are looking at Vag Bagger) He called it a 5 or 6? I have never done it and have not seen it in awhile but remember it looking kinda cool.

By Sean Butler
Oct 19, 2009

There is a hold on the face that could be used for a matched start (the possible "lower" start I was referring to)

We were starting with a right hand on that face hold and left hand on a sloper on the arete.

This past weekend was the first time I've seen this boulder and I can't believe it doesn't get more traffic. Super fun.

By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009

Yeah Jim started matched on that "lower" start.

There are tons of neglected boulders at Sawmill. I think with some work and brushes 50+ new problems could go up.

By nicros fivten
Oct 19, 2009

He called it

Betty's Pie

By nicros fivten
Oct 30, 2009

my estimated beta puts it at v7? the first move was hard.

By Sean Butler
Nov 9, 2009

I agree the first move feels pretty hard.