Joel Therneau and Lana Nysse on the 2nd pitch. Mar...
Description
The most spectacular natural icefall in Minnesota. Grade may vary depending on conditions but the top section is most often solid WI 4. Several variations exist. The climb may be done on top-rope or on lead and it is fun either way. It is best led in two pitches. For one pitch lead a pair of 60m ropes is required (70m is better) and long runners are needed for the bottom of the vertical flow to minimize drag.
Pitch 1: Start from the river and climb over a short steep section leading into a wider snowy bowl at the bottom of the main flow. Ice conditions rarely permit to set up a belay at the bottom of the bowl to avoid being hit by falling ice. Most of the time you need to suck it up and set up an anchor where the ice gets steeper. Pitch 2: Go up the steep flow. Fixed sling anchor on top. Use your own slings to back it up.
Reference: "Ice Climbs of the Lake Superior Region", Granite Publishing
From Grand Marais drive north on Hwy 61 for about 2 miles until you see the bridge over Devil Track River (sign). Drive roughly 100 yards past the bridge and park on the right side of the highway. Make sure you parked well past the last mailbox. Walk back towards the bridge. If the river is frozen follow it into the canyon for about 1 mile. Nightfall flows down the cliff on the left side of the river.
If the river is not frozen, walk back additional 100 yards along the highway, turn right into a private driveway leading to a log cabin. To get into the state forest you need to cross private land past the cabin. If possible, ask the owners for permission. In the forest locate the well-maintained snowmobile trail which roughly follows the cliffline. Hike the trail until it gets closest to the edge of the canyon. You should clearly see reddish cliffs on the other side from that point. Locate the snow gully on top of the climb and scramble down to the sling anchors around the trees. Set up a top rope or rap to the bottom of the canyon. A pair of 60 meter ropes barely makes it to base of the climb.
Kevin, because of the large bowl in the first one third of the climb, after the initial 30ft, it is actually easier to do it in two pitches. It is possible to do it in one pitch but that involves placing very long slings (so long that you could actually deck) at the start of the vertical section right after the bowl to avoid rope drag.
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